Type: Trad
FA: Randy Joseph and Tim Hanson (I believe), early 1980s
Page Views: 5,821 total · 21/month
Shared By: Charles Vernon on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route

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Description Suggest change

This is a one pitch route that begins from the top of the flake that marks the start of Pear Buttress. It can thus be used as a start to Loose Ends, Pear Buttress, or Visual Aids. You can start the pitch by leading the first half of Pear Buttress and then traversing left on the ledge with blocks that marks the top of the flake, although this can cause rope-drag and also increases the possibility of ledge-fall. Perhaps more common is to start from a belay platform just down and left of the flake, or you can boulder up onto the flake and establish your belayer there. You can access this platform by scrambling down from the staging area at the base of Howling at the Wind, Fat City Crack, and Toot (a good option if planning to rappel), or by scrambling up and around from the base of Pear Buttress.

The route begins from the middle of the flake and follows two very thin but good cracks on perfect rock up to the sloping ledge of the three above mentioned routes. Small nuts work really well; small cams are bomber at the crux but plug the crucial locks. I recommend continuing with Visual Aids and Cheap Date for a challenging route with 3 pitches of exquisite, mid-5.10 finger cracks on perfect rock--an unheralded link-up that is one of the best routes at Lumpy Ridge. However, if you don't want to continue, you can lead up either Loose Ends or Pear Buttress to the fixed rappel anchor at the top of P2 of Pear Buttress. From here, you can rappel west (NOT down the route) with a single 60-meter rope down to the base of the Howling at the Wind Dihedral, in the vicinity of the route Toot.

Protection Suggest change

Small stoppers (including RPs), small camming units, and a #3 Friend.