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Routes in J-Crack Slab Area

Adventures of B-Dog, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Alien Algorithm T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Campground, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cave Exit, The T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cavity, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Endless Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fascist Drill in the West T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Femp T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fender T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Happy Camper T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
J-Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
KOAlien T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Loose Ends T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mission Accomplished T,TR 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Mission Impossible T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Monkey on a String S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Pear Buttress T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pizza Face T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Stretch Marks T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Thindependence T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Thinstone T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Turn the Page T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R
Unnamed 5.9 TR TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Visual Aids T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Weekend Warrior S,TR 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
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Type: Trad
FA: Randy Joseph and Tim Hanson (I believe), early 1980s
Page Views: 4,246 total · 20/month
Shared By: Charles Vernon on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Season raptor closures Details

Description

This is a one pitch route that begins from the top of the flake that marks the start of Pear Buttress. It can thus be used as a start to Loose Ends, Pear Buttress, or Visual Aids. You can start the pitch by leading the first half of Pear Buttress and then traversing left on the ledge with blocks that marks the top of the flake, although this can easily cause rope-drag and also increases the possibility of ledge-fall. Most people start from a belay platform just down and left of the flake, or you can boulder up onto the flake and establish your belayer there. You can access this platform by scrambling down from the staging area at the base of Howling at the Wind, Fat City Crack, and Toot (a good option if planning to rappel), or by scrambling up and around from the base of Pear Buttress. 

The route begins from the middle of the flake and follows two very thin but good cracks on perfect rock up to the sloping ledge of the three above mentioned routes. Small nuts work really well; small cams are bomber at the crux but plug the crucial locks. I recommend continuing with Visual Aids and Cheap Date for a challenging route with 3 pitches of exquisite, mid-5.10 finger cracks on perfect rock--an unheralded link-up that is one of the best routes at Lumpy Ridge. However, if you don't want to continue, you can lead up either Loose Ends or Pear Buttress to the fixed rappel anchor at the top of P2 of Pear Buttress. From here, you can rappel west (NOT down the route) down to the base of the Howling at the Wind Dihedral, in the vicinity of the route Toot.

Protection

Small stoppers (including RPs), small camming units, and a #3 Friend.

Photos

Did this today 5-6-01 with Charles after a morning of climbing in Boulder Canyon. I wanted to mention that like Chucky said, avoiding the Pear Buttress flake is a good choice. You can start the route by 4th classing up a little chimney to the left of the flake. Have your belayer perch on the top of this big block with his/her feet pressed against the slab. Comfy little spot. The leader can continue around the left and up an easy slab to the start of the route.

A fun TR (or no pro) variation to the start of Thindependence or Pear is the 5.9+ slab directly below the twin cracks of Thindependence. Staying on the lefthand margin of this face (utilizing the arete once or twice) is a great 5.9 face line with perfect crimps. Jan 1, 2001
Kind of a taxing lead (placing gear in your only holds), but man, it is sweet. It needs to longer. Take some small RPs and small TCUs or a green Alien. Jun 27, 2003
Placing small nuts alleviates the problem of plugging up your fingerlocks with cams. There is a good nut constriction every 4-5 feet in the first 30 feet (crux). Gear beta (don't read if you don't want it): I almost emptied my rack of all nuts in the #2-#4 BD stopper range in the crux first 30 feet, and didn't place a single cam. Aug 4, 2003
Ivan Rezucha
Fort Collins, CO
  5.10c
Ivan Rezucha   Fort Collins, CO
  5.10c
Real hard to lead clean. Much harder than some other Lumpy 10c's I've done. Lumpy is hard in general. Like Joe, I used almost all nuts on the hard part--a green Alien in the right crack and a bunch of brass in the left crack. Sep 25, 2004
Steven Lucarelli
Moab, UT
  5.10c
Steven Lucarelli   Moab, UT
  5.10c
What a great pitch, very high quality. The gear is really good so I would recommend not wasting your energy placing to much gear since there are no good rests. Apr 24, 2006
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.10
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.10
Easier than Visual Aids, at least if you try to continue straight through and upward as a 40M pitch. Jul 4, 2008
J1.
Boulder, Colorado
  5.10c
J1.   Boulder, Colorado
  5.10c
Thought this route was great.... You can easily do the first pitch of Pear Buttress and then just set your belay below the dual cracks of Thin-d, no rope drag to pull u off.... Bring RPs if you like to sew it up.... Enjoy! Oct 10, 2010
Ross Swanson
Pinewood Springs
 
Ross Swanson   Pinewood Springs
 
Easy to link 1st pitch of Pear B & ThinIndependence (TI) and quite the contrast all in one pitch, of course don't place pro to high at the top of Pear B.

A real pumper placing pro on TI, a gripping lead and another must do Lumpy 10c. Jul 3, 2011

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