Type: Trad, 5 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 23,888 total · 100/month
Shared By: Ben Mottinger on Dec 31, 2000 with 1 Suggestions
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Peregrine nesting closure - through 7/31/20 Details
Access Issue: Season raptor closures Details

Description

Superb route. Start on the flake right of the popular Pear Buttress.

P1. Thin lieback corner (9) and hand-traverse left (8) to a ledge, belay just up from a crystal dyke.

P2. Traverse 10 feet or so left to the second thin crack up the face. The first one is 10b. Start with a few difficult and insecure jams (9) then continue this pitch at solid 5.8 to a nice ledge past a flake.

P3. Lieback the nice, left-arcing, left-facing dihedral (9) to a big ledge.

P4. Continue up and right on easy, blocky slab climbing to a nook under The Cave (5.2?)

P5. Exit The Cave through the slot to the left of the large block. There is one tricky move, but the holds are there....

Descent: Downclimb a gully to the east. The downclimbing includes steep slabs and some 5th-class moves, so follow cairns and look around for the safest path to them. Don't head downhill immediately after the Cave exit, instead traverse until a worn path down the gully comes into view and scramble over to join that.

Protection

Full set wired nuts, Friends from #0.5-#4 with doubles in #0.5-#2, some micro cams or TCUs, and a few medium hexes.

Photos