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Routes in J-Crack Slab Area

Adventures of B-Dog, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Alien Algorithm T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Campground, The T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cave Exit, The T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cavity, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Endless Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fascist Drill in the West T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Femp T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fender T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Happy Camper T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
J-Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
KOAlien T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Loose Ends T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mission Accomplished T,TR 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Mission Impossible T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Monkey on a String S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Pear Buttress T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pizza Face T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Stretch Marks T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Thindependence T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Thinstone T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Turn the Page T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R
Unnamed 5.9 TR TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Visual Aids T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Weekend Warrior S,TR 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad
FA: [Scott Kimball]
Page Views: 2,686 total, 13/month
Shared By: Patrick Vernon on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Season raptor closures Details

Description

This is an excellent pitch to the left of Thindependence. It takes an elegant thin crack next to an arete and has a fixed pin 30 feet up. A first crux (.11a) is encountered just of the ground and is a tad on the hairy side (10 feet up, bad pro). A second crux (.10+) is encountered after the pin on delicate liebacking and is well protected. Follow some 5.9 cracks after the arete peters out up to the second pitch on Pear Buttress. This route is hard to toprope without a 200 foot rope, better to continue on to the top or rap off near Toot.

Protection

RPs, small stoppers, a red Metolius TCU, for just after the crux, a few medium sized pieces for the belay.

Photos

This may be more like 10+ than 11-, but calling it 10a is ridiculous. Super fun. Jun 20, 2009
Jeff G.
Fort Collins
  5.11a
Jeff G.   Fort Collins
  5.11a
A great combination is to do Stretch Marks directly into the second pitch of Loose Ends. Step left near the top of Loose Ends to the nice belay ledge on Pear Buttress. This makes for a very long and enjoyable pitch with no rope drag issues. A 60m rope is plenty. May 28, 2008
Crusty  
Nate, I'm unwilling to go along with your downgrade of Stretch Marks to 5.10a. It feels harder to me than Thindependance right next door at 5.10c. I am willing to upgrade your climbing ability however. Your email moniker is 'climbhardV10.' If your climbing v10 I'll bet Stretch Marks feels like 5.9. I'm climbing v3 and it feels like 5.11a. Keep crankin'! Feb 14, 2003
Well, the first move just was an easy lieback on the flared crack to a no-hands rest. There I placed the RP. Then, it was just a short few crimps to the larger part of the crack where I placed my #4 stopper right before I clipped the pin. From there, the climbing was great and just ran it out to the slabby crack and used TCUs and Aliens. Sorry if I pissed anyone off, but that was just my opinion. Jan 28, 2003
This has got to be one of my favorite Lumpy pitches, but I hate to say that it is not 5.11a. It feels more like 5.10a. The moves are dicey and the pro is a marginal, but the climbing is just not that difficult. All I brought to lead this pitch all the way to the top of the Thinstone was a #2 RP, 3, 4, and 5 stopper and 2 smaller TCUs and a couple med sized Aliens. The last chimney section up to the anchor is kind of strange, but the pro is great. One of my favorites at Lumpy! Jan 27, 2003
justin dubois
Estes Park
justin dubois   Estes Park
I found a trucker #4 stopper just before the crack jogs right. From here you can punch it to the pin safely. ENJOY!! Feb 20, 2002
This short route can serve as an excellent link-up to Visual Aids, to Loose Ends, and then to Cheap Date for a fairly sustained, spectacular alternate route to the top of The Book on busy days! Oct 3, 2001
Charles Vernon
Tucson, AZ
 
Charles Vernon   Tucson, AZ
 
Beta from an ascent 7/27/01: don't be scared off by the first moves: the RP is good and right at your waist. Bring two blue Metolius TCUs for the seam above this, however--it offers only intermittently good protection on still hard climbing (~10d). Aug 1, 2001
Charles and I were meaning to climb this today, but neither of us were feeling quite up to committing past the first section. We did boulder up past the crux though and got a good RP below the finger crack. I think it would have definitely protected a fall moving to the finger jam where the TCU could be placed. Jan 1, 2001
Patrick Vernon
Estes Park, CO
  5.11a PG13
Patrick Vernon   Estes Park, CO
  5.11a PG13
Hmm, the crux is getting to the finger jam, not incredibly hard but definitely a little scary, I couldn't get a very good RP, a fall off this move would not be great, if the RP ripped it would be disasterous. It's a little spicy after the crux also on .9+ terrain with bad RPs, but its over quickly and the upper .10+ climbing has good pro. A very fun pitch. Jan 1, 2001