Type: Trad, 110 ft
FA: Bernard Gillett and Crusty
Page Views: 1,337 total · 8/month
Shared By: justin dubois on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: Season raptor closures Details

Description

This beautiful pitch is located just left of Fascist Drill and shares the same first 25'. Climb up the little left facing corner past the bush, and stem up into the roof on your left. Desperate underclinging leads out under the roof, with small tips pods, and smaller feet. When the roof ends, turn the corner into the beautiful hanging dihedral (11c) and climb up it for a couple body lengths. Then step right up onto the face of Fascist Drill and climb it past a few bolts to an anchor. This pitch was first sent by Bernard with two fixed pins. It now sports a shady looking knifeblade and a wire.

Protection

Mostly smallish stuff, RPs, small stoppers and little cams to 2". There is a dicey looking pin and a fixed wire in the business area.

Photos

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Eli Helmuth
Ciales, PR
  5.12a R
Eli Helmuth   Ciales, PR
  5.12a R
This route is a short variation to the classic Fascist Drill which it joins at about the half-way point.

The initial bit up to the crux and the crux roof crack are both barely protectable without the knifeblades and other "hardware" which have all fallen out of the crack since the FA. Otherwise, it is a fun, short crux which is probably best top-roped off the Fascist anchors- a 30 meter rope stretcher of a top-rope. I got one small nut to stick in the crux roof and a 0 TCU will just fit as well. Definitely a spicy 12a onsight! Jul 10, 2006
Dusty
Fort Collins
  5.12b R
Dusty   Fort Collins
  5.12b R
As of today, just one upward driven knife-blade about half way through the roof. The roof took two RPs; a smaller, not-so-good one before the pin and a bigger, bomber one after the pin. This thing felt hard for 12a. To me, it felt much harder than Monkey on a String (12b). It is a great climb, however, and a very intense lead. Jun 21, 2009