Type: Trad, Sport
FA: Mike Caldwell and Randy Ferris
Page Views: 243 total · 1/month
Shared By: justin dubois on May 19, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


9 Opinions

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Access Issue: Season raptor closures Details

Description

This great pitch is located on the far right side of the Book. Begin up a corner just right of Mission Impossible, and stem up a thin corner that meets a roof. Climb right to a slabby stance, clip a bolt at the lip of the roof, and pull straight over. Then more slabbin' (crux) up a line of bolts to the chains of Mission Impossible.

Protection

Rack to two inches and some draws.

Photos

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Crusty  
Although well enough protected for a hardman like Dubois, this excellent pitch is about ripe for some maintenance. The Bugaboo protecting the move below the roof is missing (as are the pins on Adventures of B-Dog just left of this route). Also the bolts, although 3/8", are in their late teenage years. Jul 17, 2002
Crusty  
Also, bring a 60m rope or be ready for a little 5.0 down climbing. Jul 17, 2002
Onsighted this bitch today and there's no fixed pins on it. New hangars (maybe bolts? RPrp's below the roof. Anwyays, my point is that this climb deservies an R/X rating. If you fell getting to that fourth (I think it was fourth, maybe it was third--it's where ya start going straight up again, and ya hope your gonna get gear in the corner/non-crack, but it's bullshit and had me cursing my ass off at the bitch) bolt, and if the third bolt were to blow you'd be screwed with your pants on. R/X for sure, because I've always bean taught to never trust my life to just one piece and that's what your doing on this. But hey--don't fall, and it don't matter. Great climbing on this bitch though and I give it 2 stars though maybe it could be 3. It's no fall zone up there, I think it deserves R/X based on what I just told you. Sep 11, 2004
Eli Helmuth
Ciales, PR
Eli Helmuth   Ciales, PR
This is a great route which is best started from the cracks to the bottom right of the route- versus the unprotected left. All of the bolts except the first have been replaced with ASCA hardware as of 5/04. There is no X to this route when started from the right - only some wild R on quality rock with solid bolts. Jun 30, 2005
SirVato
Boulder
 
SirVato   Boulder
 
I TR'd this after doing Mission Impossible. While I was climbing through the runout bolted section (3-4) which was why I didn't want to lead this, I noticed that there USED to actually be a bolt there.
I could see the round patch of epoxy where a bolt hole had been filled. Had this been pulled for a reason?? Was it the FA's doing?
I doubt that this route was put up as is but, maybe some one can replace that bolt. Jun 12, 2006
Jeff G.
Fort Collins
  5.11b
Jeff G.   Fort Collins
  5.11b
This is a great pitch. Probably PG-13 not R. No additional bolts are needed. You need some composure but that is what makes it a great pitch of face climbing. Oct 3, 2009