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Routes in J-Crack Slab Area
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Adventures of B-Dog, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Alien Algorithm T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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Campground, The T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Cave Exit, The T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Cavity, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Endless Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Fascist Drill in the West T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Femp T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Fender T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Happy Camper T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Hurley Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Hurley Traverse T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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J-Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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KOAlien T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R |
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Loose Ends T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Mission Accomplished T,TR 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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Mission Impossible T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Monkey on a String S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Pear Buttress T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Pizza Face T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Right Exit T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Stretch Marks T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Thindependence T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Thinstone T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Turn the Page T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c R |
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Unnamed 5.9 TR TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X |
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Visual Aids T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Weekend Warrior S,TR 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
| Unsorted Routes: | |
| Type: | Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 2 pitches |
| GPS: | 40.40556, -105.53398 |
| FA: | Tom Fender, Jack Turner |
| Page Views: | 1,390 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | Doug Haller on Jun 15, 2016 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: 2026 Seasonal Raptor Closures lifted
Details
From the Denver Post 7/21/24: some of the raptor closures have been lifted, officials announced.
Upper & Lower Twin Owls, Rock One, The Book and access trail, Bookmark, and Left Book were opened based on a park new release.
Closures have been extended for Thunder Buttress, access trail, The Parish, Cathedral Wall.
Closures above the Loch Vale-Sky Pond trail have been extended.
Per Brent Frazier: the raptor closures have been lifted in the Lumpy Ridge and Loch Vale Areas ( nps.gov/romo/raptor-closure…)
Each year, Rocky Mountain National Park initiates temporary closures in certain areas of the park to ensure that birds of prey will be undisturbed during their breeding and nesting seasons. These closures begin on February 15 and continue through July 31, if appropriate. Monitoring by park staff and volunteers have determined that all remaining closures can be lifted on July 28, 2023.
Per Matt Coghill: the Golden eagle nesting activity has extended Lumpy closures through Aug. 15, 2022 on Sundance, Thunder Buttress, and Needle Summit!
Per A.Eaton: the raptor closures have been lifted as of 6/4/2022 at Lumpy for the following formations:
Twin Owls
Rock One
Batman Rock
Batman Pinnacle
Checkerboard
Lightning Rock
Per the Denver Post: as of Feb. 15, 2022, Checkerboard Rock, Lightning Rock, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sundance, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Bookmark Pinnacle, The Left Book, Bookmark, Twin Owls, Rock One, and the Needle are closed for raptor nesting. These closures will continue through July 31, 2022 if needed.
All areas [were] OPEN to climbing for the 2021 post July season.
Closures ending July 31:
Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Lightning Rock, Checkerboard Rock - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Sundance - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
The Book Area: Left Book, The Bookmark, Bookmark Pinnacle, and the entire Book formation (including Renaissance Wall, Isis Buttress, Pages Wall Area, and J-Crack Slab Area)- nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Thunder Buttress and The Parish - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Twin Owls and Rock One - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Cathedral Wall - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
When closed, the closures include the named rock formations and the areas surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes, and climber's access trails to the formation.
Areas not listed are presumed to be open. These closures will be lifted or extended as conditions dictate.
Description
If all the classics on The Book/Right Book are occupied or you want an adventure, consider Fender.
Locate the start of Femp.
P1: climb and scramble up and right of Femp over two large and brush covered ledges making use of gear as needed to reach the obvious headwall, paralleling the large, left-facing corner. Tackle the headwall. Follow two flared, parallel cracks, and stem the corner, using flared hands, small chickenheads, and stemming to obtain a small ledge just after the angle declines.
P2: follow a wide crack right and then left for about 40 feet. As the crack narrows, select exit on either the right or left side of a perched block to climb upward (not left toward Femp). Continue upward toward the east shoulder of the Book via intermittent cracks, eventually climbing either a blank face or traversing right into a (different) large, left-facing corner via a hand traverse. Gain the summit/shoulder of the buttress via a couple of thin hands/finger cracks. Walk north on the ledge to find belay options.
Location
This is left of Femp in the large, left-facing corner. If you see Endless Crack, you're too far right.
Protection
Gear: a standard Lumpy Rack with extras in the #1-3 Camalot size. I carried (1) #3 and could have used another or a #4, a 70m rope, and lots of long slings to minimize rope drag. The second belay requires some work to find/set up if you do not use the small tree 30 feet back from the edge.
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