Type: Trad, 400 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Tom Fender, Jack Turner
Page Views: 710 total · 14/month
Shared By: Doug Haller on Jun 15, 2016
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Peregrine nesting closure - extended through 8/15/20 Details
Access Issue: Season raptor closures Details

Description

If all the classics on The Book/Right Book are occupied or you want an adventure, consider Fender.

Locate the start of Femp.

P1: climb and scramble up and right of Femp over two large and brush covered ledges making use of gear as needed to reach the obvious headwall, paralleling the large, left-facing corner. Tackle the headwall. Follow two flared, parallel cracks, and stem the corner, using flared hands, small chickenheads, and stemming to obtain a small ledge just after the angle declines.

P2: follow a wide crack right and then left for about 40 feet. As the crack narrows, select exit on either the right or left side of a perched block to climb upward (not left toward Femp). Continue upward toward the east shoulder of the Book via intermittent cracks, eventually climbing either a blank face or traversing right into a (different) large, left-facing corner via a hand traverse. Gain the summit/shoulder of the buttress via a couple of thin hands/finger cracks. Walk north on the ledge to find belay options.

Location

This is left of Femp in the large, left-facing corner. If you see Endless Crack, you're too far right.

Protection

Gear: a standard Lumpy Rack with extras in the #1-3 Camalot size. I carried (1) #3 and could have used another or a #4, a 70m rope, and lots of long slings to minimize rope drag. The second belay requires some work to find/set up if you do not use the small tree 30 feet back from the edge.

Photos