Type: Trad, 400 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Tom Fender, Jack Turner
Page Views: 442 total · 14/month
Shared By: doug haller on Jun 15, 2016
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Season raptor closures Details


If all the classics on The Book/Right Book are occupied or you want an adventure, consider Fender.

Locate the start of Femp.

P1: climb and scramble up and right of Femp over two large and brush covered ledges making use of gear as needed to reach the obvious headwall, paralleling the large, left-facing corner. Tackle the headwall. Follow two flared, parallel cracks, and stem the corner, using flared hands, small chickenheads, and stemming to obtain a small ledge just after the angle declines.

P2: follow a wide crack right and then left for about 40 feet. As the crack narrows, select exit on either the right or left side of a perched block to climb upward (not left toward Femp). Continue upward toward the east shoulder of the Book via intermittent cracks, eventually climbing either a blank face or traversing right into a (different) large, left-facing corner via a hand traverse. Gain the summit/shoulder of the buttress via a couple of thin hands/finger cracks. Walk north on the ledge to find belay options.


This is left of Femp in the large, left-facing corner. If you see Endless Crack, you're too far right.


Gear: a standard Lumpy Rack with extras in the #1-3 Camalot size. I carried (1) #3 and could have used another or a #4, a 70m rope, and lots of long slings to minimize rope drag. The second belay requires some work to find/set up if you do not use the small tree 30 feet back from the edge.


Kelli Deeter
Longmont, CO
Kelli Deeter   Longmont, CO
Great as the second. Lots of loose large rocks. I enjoyed it! Jun 17, 2016
S2k 4life
S2k 4life   Baltimore
Just did this route after Pear and was pumped and fell when the two cracks pettered out. Def. the crux, 2nd pitch was not easy either, had to do a lil' 3rd pitch easy traverse to get to the walkoff safely. Walkoff sucks, leave your climbing shoes on, tough 2 long pitches. It was fun, didn't feel much loose rock, 5.8. Jul 25, 2017