Avg: 2 from 6 votes
|Type:||Trad, 400 ft, 2 pitches|
|FA:||Tom Fender, Jack Turner|
|Page Views:||710 total · 14/month|
|Shared By:||Doug Haller on Jun 15, 2016|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
When closed, the closures include the named rock formations and the areas surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes, and climber's access trails to the formation.
Areas not listed are presumed to be open. These closures will be lifted or extended as conditions dictate.
For up to date closures visit: nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Locate the start of Femp.
P1: climb and scramble up and right of Femp over two large and brush covered ledges making use of gear as needed to reach the obvious headwall, paralleling the large, left-facing corner. Tackle the headwall. Follow two flared, parallel cracks, and stem the corner, using flared hands, small chickenheads, and stemming to obtain a small ledge just after the angle declines.
P2: follow a wide crack right and then left for about 40 feet. As the crack narrows, select exit on either the right or left side of a perched block to climb upward (not left toward Femp). Continue upward toward the east shoulder of the Book via intermittent cracks, eventually climbing either a blank face or traversing right into a (different) large, left-facing corner via a hand traverse. Gain the summit/shoulder of the buttress via a couple of thin hands/finger cracks. Walk north on the ledge to find belay options.