Avg: 3.6 from 536 votes
|Type:||Trad, 5 pitches, Grade II|
|Page Views:||62,460 total · 309/month|
|Shared By:||Charles Vernon on Dec 31, 2004|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
Closures ending July 31:
Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Lightning Rock, Checkerboard Rock - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Sundance - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
The Book Area: Left Book, The Bookmark, Bookmark Pinnacle, and the entire Book formation (including Renaissance Wall, Isis Buttress, Pages Wall Area, and J-Crack Slab Area)-nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Thunder Buttress and The Parish - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Twin Owls and Rock One - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Cathedral Wall - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
When closed, the closures include the named rock formations and the areas surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes, and climber's access trails to the formation.
Areas not listed are presumed to be open. These closures will be lifted or extended as conditions dictate.
P1. The flake can be climbed directly from the bottom (5.9 R), but the standard start is to climb up the slab right of the flake and step into it where it offers a perfect hand crack (5.7 with no pro for the first 20 feet). One can avoid all these scary starts (but also some great climbing) by scrambling up around to the left to get on top of the flake. In either case, from the top right side of the flake, follow thin cracks (crux) up to a belay on a sloping ledge.
P2. Follow the ledge up left to the edge of the face, then cut back right into a crack and follow that to a belay on a perfect small ledge (5.4). A much nicer way to do this pitch is to climb the left of two finger cracks (P2 of Loose Ends) off the initial ledge and then step left above; however, this is much harder than anything else on the route.
P3. Follow a perfect hand and finger crack above the belay for 100 feet (5.8), then traverse right under a small roof to a belay on another fine ledge.
There are a couple other ways to do the top part of this pitch. One can traverse along a horizontal break about 20 feet below the roof, then up and into the big Loose Ends corner where a 5.9- move leads to the belay ledge. This is a great way to do the pitch, but as with the variation on pitch two, it bumps the overall route grade up. Or, continue around the left side of the roof leading to some slightly runout 5.8 climbing and eventually easier ground where you can set a belay. I'm not as fond of this last option.
P4 & 5. Above the ledge, wander easily to the Cave area and pick an exit. Standard finishes are the Hurley Traverse or the Cave itself.