Type: | Trad |
FA: | first ascent unknown |
Page Views: | 6,465 total · 23/month |
Shared By: | Charles Vernon on Dec 31, 2000 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Raptor Closures lifted 7/28/23
Details
Per Brent Frazier: the raptor closures have been lifted in the Lumpy Ridge and Loch Vale Areas ( nps.gov/romo/raptor-closure…)
Each year, Rocky Mountain National Park initiates temporary closures in certain areas of the park to ensure that birds of prey will be undisturbed during their breeding and nesting seasons. These closures begin on February 15 and continue through July 31, if appropriate. Monitoring by park staff and volunteers have determined that all remaining closures can be lifted on July 28, 2023.
Per Matt Coghill: the Golden eagle nesting activity has extended Lumpy closures through Aug. 15, 2022 on Sundance, Thunder Buttress, and Needle Summit!
Per A.Eaton: the raptor closures have been lifted as of 6/4/2022 at Lumpy for the following formations:
Twin Owls
Rock One
Batman Rock
Batman Pinnacle
Checkerboard
Lightning Rock
Per the Denver Post: as of Feb. 15, 2022, Checkerboard Rock, Lightning Rock, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sundance, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Bookmark Pinnacle, The Left Book, Bookmark, Twin Owls, Rock One, and the Needle are closed for raptor nesting. These closures will continue through July 31, 2022 if needed.
All areas [were] OPEN to climbing for the 2021 post July season.
Closures ending July 31:
Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Lightning Rock, Checkerboard Rock - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Sundance - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
The Book Area: Left Book, The Bookmark, Bookmark Pinnacle, and the entire Book formation (including Renaissance Wall, Isis Buttress, Pages Wall Area, and J-Crack Slab Area)- nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Thunder Buttress and The Parish - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Twin Owls and Rock One - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Cathedral Wall - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
When closed, the closures include the named rock formations and the areas surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes, and climber's access trails to the formation.
Areas not listed are presumed to be open. These closures will be lifted or extended as conditions dictate.
Each year, Rocky Mountain National Park initiates temporary closures in certain areas of the park to ensure that birds of prey will be undisturbed during their breeding and nesting seasons. These closures begin on February 15 and continue through July 31, if appropriate. Monitoring by park staff and volunteers have determined that all remaining closures can be lifted on July 28, 2023.
Per Matt Coghill: the Golden eagle nesting activity has extended Lumpy closures through Aug. 15, 2022 on Sundance, Thunder Buttress, and Needle Summit!
Per A.Eaton: the raptor closures have been lifted as of 6/4/2022 at Lumpy for the following formations:
Twin Owls
Rock One
Batman Rock
Batman Pinnacle
Checkerboard
Lightning Rock
Per the Denver Post: as of Feb. 15, 2022, Checkerboard Rock, Lightning Rock, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sundance, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Bookmark Pinnacle, The Left Book, Bookmark, Twin Owls, Rock One, and the Needle are closed for raptor nesting. These closures will continue through July 31, 2022 if needed.
All areas [were] OPEN to climbing for the 2021 post July season.
Closures ending July 31:
Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Lightning Rock, Checkerboard Rock - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Sundance - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
The Book Area: Left Book, The Bookmark, Bookmark Pinnacle, and the entire Book formation (including Renaissance Wall, Isis Buttress, Pages Wall Area, and J-Crack Slab Area)- nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Thunder Buttress and The Parish - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Twin Owls and Rock One - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Cathedral Wall - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
When closed, the closures include the named rock formations and the areas surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes, and climber's access trails to the formation.
Areas not listed are presumed to be open. These closures will be lifted or extended as conditions dictate.
Description
This route is the standard finish to climbs on the right side of the Book, (though not as good as the harder finishes to its left), and could be accessed from climbs such as Osiris and George's Tree by traversing right along Fang Ledge. I thought it would be good to add it because most of the other routes for this rock make reference to it.
The Book is 500-600 feet high and has a prominent lower-angled section about 2/3 of the way up across much of its width. Near the right edge of the book, this easy slab terminates beneath a steep headwall, with a small cave at its right. Down and right from the cave is a prominent roof band, and much of the rock above it has a reddish tint.
The cave is the easiest way off for most climbs on the right side of the Book. It offers two major 5.7-5.8ish variations.
From just below it, one can boulder out the roof, which is much easier than it looks (involving slyness and contortions). There may be a fixed pin and other decent gear can be had; finish up a groove. A more straightforward finish lies just to the right (definitely the recommended one if speed is an issue at all, otherwise over the roof is quite fun). Hand traverse around an overhang utilizing a horizontal crack with good medium-small Friend placements, and finish straight up easier rock. Watch rope drag on either exit. The right end of the hand traverse can also be reached directly by climbing a thin 5.9 crack with tricky placements.
Descend by downclimbing a short way, then follow a ledge east, and pick up a water groove which leads to a series of slabs, chimneys, and grooves. One can also rappel from a tree at the beginning of the ledge to reach this point (recommended in wet or dark). Bear south east (easier but longer) or south west (4th class, with a few cairns--be sure to cut back east partway down or you'll get cliffed). Walk west back to the base of your route.
The Book is 500-600 feet high and has a prominent lower-angled section about 2/3 of the way up across much of its width. Near the right edge of the book, this easy slab terminates beneath a steep headwall, with a small cave at its right. Down and right from the cave is a prominent roof band, and much of the rock above it has a reddish tint.
The cave is the easiest way off for most climbs on the right side of the Book. It offers two major 5.7-5.8ish variations.
From just below it, one can boulder out the roof, which is much easier than it looks (involving slyness and contortions). There may be a fixed pin and other decent gear can be had; finish up a groove. A more straightforward finish lies just to the right (definitely the recommended one if speed is an issue at all, otherwise over the roof is quite fun). Hand traverse around an overhang utilizing a horizontal crack with good medium-small Friend placements, and finish straight up easier rock. Watch rope drag on either exit. The right end of the hand traverse can also be reached directly by climbing a thin 5.9 crack with tricky placements.
Descend by downclimbing a short way, then follow a ledge east, and pick up a water groove which leads to a series of slabs, chimneys, and grooves. One can also rappel from a tree at the beginning of the ledge to reach this point (recommended in wet or dark). Bear south east (easier but longer) or south west (4th class, with a few cairns--be sure to cut back east partway down or you'll get cliffed). Walk west back to the base of your route.
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