Type: Trad, 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: FA: George Hurley, Steve Pomerance, 1960s (5.7 A2)
Page Views: 9,644 total · 40/month
Shared By: Patrick Vernon on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Peregrine nesting closure - extended through 8/15/20 Details
Access Issue: Season raptor closures Details

Description

I've only done the first pitch of this route. If you feel solid on 5.9 and have never climbed at Lumpy, this is a good route to do, it is your standard Lumpy weirdness.

P1. This pitch begins 100 feet or so to the left of Fat City. It is a clean, low-angle, flared crack in a blank slab, just right of an area of many pronounced grooves. It leads to a two bolt anchor less than half a rope-length up feet up (and continues above). This crack appears easy from down below, but it is probably one of the hardest 5.9 pitches you will ever do. The crack is flared, insecure, and sustained the whole way to the anchor. There is also an awesome .12a face climb 20 feet to the right of it of that can be toproped from the anchors on George's Tree. The crux is 20 feet up, but the face remains solid 5.10 and 5.11 the whole way up. These two routes are great for developing slab technique. ~140'.

Addendum:

On the first pitch above the 2 bolt anchor, it gets steeper.

P2. leads up more cracks. ~60'.

Var. A note on the variation on the 2nd pitch (5.10c). This line goes up and to the right at the top of the P1, up a right-facing, thin corner and heads back left after the crux slabby bulge, joining the original line above. Take a good handful of micronuts to protect this one. Very thin and balancy.

P3. another pitch up good cracks leads to the ledge 2/3s up the wall. ~130'.

P4. follow the most obvious cracks to the top. This was probably the crux. ~ 160'.

Eds. we were told that the tree fell down in 2014.

Protection

Standard rack to a #3.5 Friend. Other recommendations: doubles of #6-10 stoppers I had on every pitch. The first pitch eats them. Doubles on stopper from #4 on up, maybe some mid-sized hexes. Bring lots of Aliens.

Photos