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Routes in The Pages Wall Area

44, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Box, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cheap Date T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Corner Pump Station T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
El Camino Real T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Fat City Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Final Chapter, The T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Frisky Puppies T,S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
George is Phat T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
George's Tree T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
High Plains Drifter T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Howling at the Wind T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Hurley Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hurley Traverse T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Interceptor T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
M.I.C. Exit [aka Parable of the Cave] T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Midway T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
New Music T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Osiris T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Outlander T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Perelandra T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Pseudo Wallet Eater T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Right Exit T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Stepped On T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
That Hideous Strength T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Toot T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Wolfie and the Scientist T,TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
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Type: Trad, TR
FA: Hidetaka Suzuki, TR Leonard Coyne, lead (both mid-'80s)
Page Views: 715 total · 3/month
Shared By: Charles Vernon on Jul 26, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: Season raptor closures Details

Description

This route is actually on a boulder just in front of the Book. From the approach path, veer left just before the rock as for Fat City, Howling at the Wind, etc. A large outcrop called the Tombstone sits just in front of the Book, at the point where one must veer left or right. This climb is on the left edge of the Tombstone, on a 30 foot high rock separated from the main Tombstone by a chimney. Look for the right-leaning, slightly overhanging thin finger crack.

I've seen the route rated anywhere from 5.12b to 5.12d, and since that is essentially uncharted water for me, I've simply called it 5.12. My brother has made clean top-rope ascents of two other 5.12c cracks on or near the Book, and feels that this is harder, so make up your own mind. Pumpy liebacks lead to technical finger jamming with bad feet--an interesting TR problem or a very hard, if short lead.

Protection

Bring many small stoppers, RPs, and TCUs to lead. To toprope, bring your rack and some longer slings to set up an anchor on top. It's hard to keep the rope from getting stuck in the crack while TRing.

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