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Routes in The Pages Wall Area

44, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Box, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cheap Date T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Corner Pump Station T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
El Camino Real T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Fat City Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Final Chapter, The T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Frisky Puppies T,S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
George is Phat T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
George's Tree T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
High Plains Drifter T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Howling at the Wind T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Hurley Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hurley Traverse T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Interceptor T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
M.I.C. Exit [aka Parable of the Cave] T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Midway T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
New Music T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Osiris T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Outlander T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Perelandra T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Pseudo Wallet Eater T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Right Exit T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Stepped On T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
That Hideous Strength T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Toot T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Wolfie and the Scientist T,TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad
FA: unknown
Page Views: 14,527 total, 75/month
Shared By: Charles Vernon on Dec 31, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Season raptor closures Details

Description

This is a great finger crack on par with J-Crack or Loose Ends. It starts left of the Cave and makes a great finish to climbs on the right side of the Book. If linked with Fat City Crack, it makes arguably the best 5.10 climb at Lumpy Ridge. The wall left of the Cave contains several crack lines. Cheap Date is the left-leaning, left fork of a prominent thin system.

Start about twenty feet below the Cave, and climb up and slightly left on engaging, steep flakes and thin cracks to a rest stance at the fork (5.9). This part is just the warm-up, but it's damn fun in its own right. From the stance, take the left branch (crux) with excellent gear is usually placed from poor stances (the right fork is 5.11 and requires multiple RP placements). Belay on a sloping ledge, then scramble off or hand traverse left to the overhanging crack of Outlander, which is 5.10d.

Protection

Rack up to a #2 Friend with 2x blue & yellow TCUs; bring a #3 Friend to finish on Outlander.
So much fun!!! Looks like nothing special from below, but once you get on this pitch, it gets tastier and tastier all the way to the top. Super sweet delicious climbing. Not overly stiff or unfair, just great movement and an unbelievable position on the wall! Sep 26, 2016
Vaughn
Colorado
  5.10-
Vaughn   Colorado
  5.10-
It lives up to the hype. Delicate liebacking in a great position. Bring a few extra finger-size pieces if you are pushing your grade. Jul 11, 2016
Jay Eggleston
Denver
  5.10b
Jay Eggleston   Denver
  5.10b
I agree that this is a great pitch, but it is not the best I have done at Lumpy. The finger locks are great and so is the gear. Not bad if you are new to 5.10s. Aug 18, 2013
Andy Hansen
Longmont, Colorado
  5.10b
Andy Hansen   Longmont, Colorado
  5.10b
Like many before me have stated, this is the best pitch of climbing I have ever done at Lumpy. Everything about the route is positive... the gear, the fingerlocks, the feet and the exposure. Beautiful liebacking up a clean sweep of granite. Sooooo good. Jun 29, 2013
Phil Lauffen
The Bubble
 
Phil Lauffen   The Bubble
 
My favorite pitch at Lumpy Ridge. Do Thindependence to J-Crack to Cheap Date to Outlander for one hell of a climb. Sep 10, 2010
Rainbow Weinstock
Boulder, CO
  5.10-
Rainbow Weinstock   Boulder, CO
  5.10-
This is my new favorite pitch at Lumpy! Bomber finger locks made it a lot less of an enduro layback than I was expecting. I found there to be reasonable stems to sufficient edges out left from which you can place pro. It definitely helped to just keep moving between these stances versus dinking around with blind placements mid-layback. May 31, 2010
JP.8d
Menlo Park, CA
JP.8d   Menlo Park, CA
Right on Jimbo. This is indeed one a the best on Lumpy. Great climb, great gear, excellent position. Climbs really well. Didn't feel too difficult and if you can keep your balance you can avoid the pump. Good lead for the aspiring .10 leader. 5 stars! May 14, 2006
Jim Amidon  
 
5 stars if I could, one of the best pitches I've ever had the pleasure of on-siting at Lumpy. There are many routes here that get my hackles up but this one was a pleasure to be on, the climbing was so damn superb the gear was a mild afterthought, but I found all of it to be great.I laid the entire thing back in a strong Lumpy breeze and had nothing but a big grin on my face the whole time.No need ever to do the Cave Exit with this gem right there. Sep 1, 2005
Anthony Everhart
  5.10a
Anthony Everhart  
  5.10a
I did this w/o any blind placements staying under the crack w/ good locks and toe cams and it didn't seem that hard. I'm sure I was smearing a lot with my left foot but there was also plenty of holds for it. An excellent route to send after getting beat down on Fat City. Jul 3, 2004
Mark Ferguson
  5.10b
Mark Ferguson  
  5.10b
One comment on gear, HB offset nuts work great on this pitch and others at Lumpy. I never climb there without them. Jun 14, 2004
Very cool crack. I would emphasize what people said above about the difficulty of placing gear on lead for this crack. It climbs easier on TR for the LB/ramp walk technique. I would say the more critical cam size is blue TCU or green Alien (bring at least two in this range... 3 would have been nice)... yellow TCUs are too big for the cruxy part. Nuts work OK in a few places, but they are a lot more work to place. Jun 9, 2003
Dan St. John
Castle Rock
Dan St. John   Castle Rock
Hard climb on lead! Difficult to place good gear since the upper section requires a sort of lay backing technique. The crack in undulating and flaring, hence good placements require a good look, and free hand, good balance, and staying power. This is an excellent test of your ability to manage you head ( small cams keep my attention), gear, and climbing skills . Unfortunately I failed at the upper section but am looking forward to take the test again. An excelent finsh to Fat City for a free climbing masterpiece. Jul 29, 2002
justin dubois
Estes Park
justin dubois   Estes Park
An exceptional crack for Lumpy......it has Fingerlocks!!! Feb 20, 2002
This is one of the best moderate 5.10 finger cracks in the Front Range. Aug 1, 2001
It's no gimme getting to the left leaning crux crack. A couple extra TCUs are nice - double or triple up on the yellow. The crack does widen up in a few spots, but it's mostly awesome finger locks. Jul 10, 2001