Type: Trad
FA: freed by Bernard Gillett
Page Views: 5,592 total · 24/month
Shared By: Steve Levin on Sep 28, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Peregrine nesting closure - extended through 8/15/20 Details
Access Issue: Season raptor closures Details

Description

An old aid climb called Fair Weather Friends (5.9 A3), this is now an incredible free pitch, with technical, strenuous finger crack climbing, stemming and liebacking.

Start below the large dihedral of Howling at the Wind, climb moderate rock to the base of the outrageous overhanging crack in the right wall, and climb it. This requires fiddling with gear at the start of the hard part, then sustained and devious climbing all the way to the anchor. It is some of the best hard rock Lumpy has to offer. Continue with Corner Pump Station, one of the best 5.11 pitches at Lumpy, or rap.

Protection

A 3 or 4" piece in the corner, some wireds or RPs to get started, then mixed bolts and wireds and TCUs. Belay from 2 bolts. 60m rope rap requires a bit of moderate downclimbing.

Photos