Type: Trad, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: Alec Sharp and John Cleaver, 1979
Page Views: 8,687 total · 31/month
Shared By: Charles Vernon on Jun 1, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route

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Description Suggest change

This incredible route attacks arguably the most striking line on the entire Book, the huge dihedral which splits the right side of the Book on its lower half.

Hike up to the Book, bearing left just before the rock. Go around an outcrop and then back right to reach the huge dihedral. Pitch one is a long hand and fist crack in the corner, and the crux is easily visible above: a triangular roof on pitch two, about 130 feet up the corner.

P1. Climb the long, excellent 5.9+ hand crack in the corner. A nice variation, requiring a smaller rack, starts up a thin crack which branches out left low in the corner (5.10a) and then traverses back to the hand crack at either a small tree or higher at a scary foot traverse. Belay just above a very large block wedged into the crack.

P2. Climb the remainder of the corner, place a couple good pieces, and then undercling out left and go around the left edge of the roof (crux, with the potential to slam back into the corner, as the crack under the roof narrows to nothing). Thin but excellent 5.10 liebacking continues straight up to a good belay ledge.

P3. Continue up a thin, short 5.9 corner, and then head up and right on easier ground for a long pitch to the cave area. Exit via the cave or pick something more compelling such as Outlander, Cheap Date, Final Chapter etc.

Protection Suggest change

Bring a standard rack, with extra #3-3.5 Friends and a #4 Friend to sew up the top of the first pitch. However, if doing the .10a variation to P1, no doubles are necessary (though the optional #4 Friend still applies). A piece such as a 0 TCU could be a help or hindrance, as it might be your best pro, while blocking your best handhold at the crux. RPs are a psychological aid.