Avg: 3.6 from 34 votes
|Type:||Trad, 3 pitches, Grade II|
|FA:||Alec Sharp and John Cleaver, 1979|
|Page Views:||7,671 total · 33/month|
|Shared By:||Charles Vernon on Jun 1, 2001|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
When closed, the closures include the named rock formations and the areas surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes, and climber's access trails to the formation.
Areas not listed are presumed to be open. These closures will be lifted or extended as conditions dictate.
For up to date closures visit: nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Hike up to the Book, bearing left just before the rock. Go around an outcrop and then back right to reach the huge dihedral. Pitch one is a long hand and fist crack in the corner, and the crux is easily visible above: a triangular roof on pitch two, about 130 feet up the corner.
P1. Climb the long, excellent 5.9+ hand crack in the corner. A nice variation, requiring a smaller rack, starts up a thin crack which branches out left low in the corner (5.10a) and then traverses back to the hand crack at either a small tree or higher at a scary foot traverse. Belay just above a very large block wedged into the crack.
P2. Climb the remainder of the corner, place a couple good pieces, and then undercling out left and go around the left edge of the roof (crux, with the potential to slam back into the corner, as the crack under the roof narrows to nothing). Thin but excellent 5.10 liebacking continues straight up to a good belay ledge.
P3. Continue up a thin, short 5.9 corner, and then head up and right on easier ground for a long pitch to the cave area. Exit via the cave or pick something more compelling such as Outlander, Cheap Date, Final Chapter etc.