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Routes in Renaissance Wall

Consequences T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Dakota S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Decisions T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Don Quixote T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Pharoah's Child T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Renaissance Wall S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Trials of Copernicus (P1) T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Description

The incredible Renaissance Wall is hidden deep within the formation of the Book. At the far left side of the book, just before the Bookmark Pinnacle and just after the Isis Buttress, follow the deepest of the 'pages' in the book to find an incredible slot canyon with tall granite walls featuring excellent routes on either side- welcome to the Renaissance Wall. Popularized by the cutting edge 3 pitch route of the same name (Renaissance Wall 5.12c) established by Mike Caldwell and Randy Ferris in 1992, this area has become host to a number of Lumpy Ridge testpiece routes, both sport and trad. Here you will find Tommy Caldwell's 'Country Boy' 13d, which remains Lumpy's hardest route even 12 years after its first ascent. This seldom done route saw its first all gear placed on lead ascent just last year (2008).

The area offers a welcome relief from the blazing hot summer sun and relentlessly low angles that characterize most Lumpy Ridge climbing. However, don't toss out your Miura's quite yet; routes here are extremely technical and require a similar level of precision footwork and crimping as one would expect elsewhere at Lumpy, just on a much steeper angle. Rock quality here generally increases as you climb higher up the wall, but chossy sections do exist everywhere, so be mindful of potential rock fall.

Remember to practice Leave No Trace when at the Renaissance Wall and please hike all the way back down to below the book if you find yourself in need of a #2 potty break.
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Getting There

Hike as you would to the Book, then follow the cliff line to the climbers left around the Pages Wall and the Isis Buttress. The Renaissance Wall is located far back in a cleft on your right, just before you encounter the Bookmark Pinnacle.

7 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Renaissance Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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