Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Tommy Caldwell, 1995
Page Views: 1,719 total · 15/month
Shared By: Jonathan Siegrist on May 4, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Season raptor closures Details

Description

Reach up to a sizable jug horn, right off the ground to begin. Either stick clip or go-go-gadget clipping arm to prevent a ground fall. The first few bolts of climbing is low angle, and very technical, not to mention that a number of foot holds (and hand holds) are disintegrating. However, a few fun moves through this section get you to a restful stance and the rock becomes far better. Follow a faded seem through ultra technical movement, clipping bolts and placing a small nut towards the top. The seem eventually opens up and jugs, slopers lead to the chains.

This route is a technicians dream line; sequential, demanding and beta-intensive. The crux is cryptic, to say the least. It was previously considered 13a (by Tommy), but a couple holds have broken since and definitely warrants a capital B.

Location

Right side of Renaissance Wall as you approach it. To the left of Hooligan (13c).

Protection

16 quickdraws and bring a couple small nuts.

Photos

I bolted and worked this route in 1993 and climbed all of it except for the 5 ft at the thin seam. Just could not do one move. Anyway, we had our first child that year, "Ryan Dakota", so I did not get back to it for a while, and Mike Caldwell called and said Tommy needed some exercise, so I said go for it. Kudos, Tommy, thanks for not changing the name. Glade to see people are climbing it. Aug 26, 2010