Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Renaissance Wall

Consequences T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Dakota S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Decisions T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Don Quixote T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Pharoah's Child T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Renaissance Wall S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Trials of Copernicus (P1) T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Tommy Caldwell, 1995
Page Views: 1,574 total, 15/month
Shared By: Jonathan Siegrist on May 4, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


3 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Season raptor closures Details

Description

Reach up to a sizable jug horn, right off the ground to begin. Either stick clip or go-go-gadget clipping arm to prevent a ground fall. The first few bolts of climbing is low angle, and very technical, not to mention that a number of foot holds (and hand holds) are disintegrating. However, a few fun moves through this section get you to a restful stance and the rock becomes far better. Follow a faded seem through ultra technical movement, clipping bolts and placing a small nut towards the top. The seem eventually opens up and jugs, slopers lead to the chains.

This route is a technicians dream line; sequential, demanding and beta-intensive. The crux is cryptic, to say the least. It was previously considered 13a (by Tommy), but a couple holds have broken since and definitely warrants a capital B.

Location

Right side of Renaissance Wall as you approach it. To the left of Hooligan (13c).

Protection

16 quickdraws and bring a couple small nuts.

Photos

I bolted and worked this route in 1993 and climbed all of it except for the 5 ft at the thin seam. Just could not do one move. Anyway, we had our first child that year, "Ryan Dakota", so I did not get back to it for a while, and Mike Caldwell called and said Tommy needed some exercise, so I said go for it. Kudos, Tommy, thanks for not changing the name. Glade to see people are climbing it. Aug 26, 2010