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Routes in Renaissance Wall

Consequences T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Dakota S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Decisions T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Don Quixote T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Pharoah's Child T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Renaissance Wall S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Trials of Copernicus (P1) T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
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Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Eli Helmuth
Page Views: 1,126 total · 8/month
Shared By: Eli Helmuth on May 17, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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2 Opinions

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Access Issue: Season raptor closures Details

Description [Suggest Change]

This new addition to the Renaissance Wall starts approximately 30' left of Decisions and climbs directly up a clean swath of multi-cracked granite. The crux involves cranking out right mid-route on an interesting "flake" feature and some steep rock with a different crack system for each hand.

Location [Suggest Change]

Start 30' left of the route Decisions between two small fir trees coming out of the cliff. The route is a straight line up for 30 meters.

Descend from a two bolt anchor.

Protection [Suggest Change]

This all-trad line takes a full selection of nuts and cams with a few extra in the #0.5 Camalot and yellow TCU range up to a #3 Camalot. Small nuts protect the crux.

Photos

This pitch has a lot of good climbing of it, primarily balancy face climbing, but it is very dirty and needs either a lot of traffic or a serious wire brushing. Once it cleans up, it will gain something in the way of stars and probably lose some difficulty.

The photos show that the first ascensionists kept angling right after the crux. It seemed to me that the natural line was to head straight up after the crux and soon enter a shallow, left-leaning corner. We went this way, and it seems to provide more climbing than the FAs way, but talk about lichen. It also leaves you an awkward 12' left of the anchor. We rigged an anchor at the end of the corner; the 2nd eventually traversed over to the rap anchor. May 25, 2006
Eli Helmuth
Ciales, PR
 
Eli Helmuth   Ciales, PR
 
Glad you enjoyed the pitch, David. This line is contrived in that it ignores the half dozen crack systems that angle left out of it, including the last one that you took. The idea is that it is a directissima- taking a straight line up the center of this wall, and the final crux that you missed by heading left is pretty fun to boot.
I did spend way too many hours scrubbing the lichen off of this one, so if you "stay on route", it is pretty clean- that's how you know you're on the route...the other three lines to the right of Consequences are somewhat the same in that they take straight lines up a wall riddled with left leaning diagonal cracks. Sep 8, 2006

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