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Elevation: 8,367 ft
GPS: 40.40613, -105.53571
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 88,287 total · 313/month
Shared By: Charles Vernon on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC
Warning Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Raptor Closures lifted 7/28/23 DetailsDrop down
Warning Access Issue: Closure Notice DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

Actually a subsidiary cliff to the Book, the Bookmark has some fantastic routes and is always less crowded, despite a shorter approach. Romulan Territory is a quintessential Lumpy 5.10 corner climb, and both Melvin's Wheel and Backflip climb beautiful 5.8 cracks and corners. Fantasy Ridge (5.9) is a unique must-do climb. Descent: very confusing. Downclimb or a do a short rappel (if summiting). Get established in either of the recesses (east or west) flanking the rock. Both will necessitate funky down-climbing and/or annoying rappel(s). Many routes end in the recess east of the summit; locate [a 2 bolt anchor with chains through a slot & stance facing the gully. Also, the fin where Fantasy Ridge and Joy and Tribulation top out has a bolted anchor. It is on the corner of the fin between the fin and the summit block, once again pretty obvious chains. From this anchor, a 100 foot rappel down into the gully (towards the Left Book) will deposit you at a hidden sling anchor under a chockstone (not visible from above.) A 50M rope will put you within an easy scramble of this anchor. Then, it's one more short rap and a scramble to the base of the Left Book. This descent is now pretty casual. There is talk of replacing the chain anchors with something less visually offensive.]

Getting There Suggest change

From the new parking lot, take the west trail towards the old Twin Owls parking lot ~0.6 miles. Then, head west from the old Twin Owls parking lot, turn off right for the Book, and then turn off left for the Bookmark (follow signs). ~40-45 minutes to approach.

34 Total Climbs

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Location: The Bookmark Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at The Bookmark

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 22
Original Fantasy Ridge
Trad 2 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 370
The 37th Cog in Melvin's Wheel a…
Trad 3 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 5
Sidewinder
Trad 2 pitches
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 53
East Side
Trad 2 pitches
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
 161
Backflip
Trad 4 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
 101
Fantasy Ridge
Trad 4 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
 52
Joy and Tribulation
Trad 3 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 4
Klingon (with direct start)
Trad 3 pitches
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 13
Inside Straight
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 95
Romulan Territory
Trad 3 pitches
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 15
The Goose
Trad, Sport
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 19
Bellyflop
Trad, Sport
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 4
Dead in Bed
Trad 4 pitches
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 17
Between The Sheets
Trad 2 pitches
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 4
Seams Like A Dream
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Original Fantasy Ridge
 22
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 2 pitches
The 37th Cog in Melvin's Wh…
 370
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 3 pitches
Sidewinder
 5
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
East Side
 53
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
Backflip
 161
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Trad 4 pitches
Fantasy Ridge
 101
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 Trad 4 pitches
Joy and Tribulation
 52
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R Trad 3 pitches
Klingon (with direct start)
 4
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 3 pitches
Inside Straight
 13
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Trad
Romulan Territory
 95
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 3 pitches
The Goose
 15
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad, Sport
Bellyflop
 19
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad, Sport
Dead in Bed
 4
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad 4 pitches
Between The Sheets
 17
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad 2 pitches
Seams Like A Dream
 4
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Trad
More Classic Climbs in The Bookmark »

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