Elevation: 8,795 ft
GPS: 40.406, -105.536 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 64,067 total · 269/month
Shared By: Charles Vernon on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC
Access Issue: Season raptor closures Details

Description

Actually a subsidiary cliff to the Book, the Bookmark has some fantastic routes and is always less crowded, despite a shorter approach. Romulan Territory is a quintessential Lumpy 5.10 corner climb, and both Melvin's Wheel and Backflip climb beautiful 5.8 cracks and corners. Fantasy Ridge (5.9) is a unique must-do climb. Descent: very confusing. Downclimb or a do a short rappel (if summiting). Get established in either of the recesses (east or west) flanking the rock. Both will necessitate funky down-climbing and/or annoying rappel(s). Many routes end in the recess east of the summit; locate [a 2 bolt anchor with chains through a slot & stance facing the gully. Also, the fin where Fantasy Ridge and Joy and Tribulation top out has a bolted anchor. It is on the corner of the fin between the fin and the summit block, once again pretty obvious chains. From this anchor, a 100 foot rappel down into the gully (towards the Left Book) will deposit you at a hidden sling anchor under a chockstone (not visible from above.) A 50M rope will put you within an easy scramble of this anchor. Then, it's one more short rap and a scramble to the base of the Left Book. This descent is now pretty casual. There is talk of replacing the chain anchors with something less visually offensive.]

Getting There

From the new parking lot, take the west trail towards the old Twin Owls parking lot ~0.6 miles. Then, head west from the old Twin Owls parking lot, turn off right for the Book, and then turn off left for the Bookmark (follow signs). ~40-45 minutes to approach.

34 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: The Bookmark Change
Type:  to 
Quality:
Pitches:
Sort by:   then:
 

Classic Climbing Routes at The Bookmark

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 13
Original Fantasy Ridge
Trad 2 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 313
The 37th Cog in Melvin's Wheel a…
Trad 3 pitches
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 46
East Side
Trad 2 pitches
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
 146
Backflip
Trad 4 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
 89
Fantasy Ridge
Trad 4 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
 46
Joy and Tribulation
Trad 3 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 11
Inside Straight
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a X
 9
Star Trek
Trad 3 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 4
Klingon (with direct start)
Trad 3 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 78
Romulan Territory
Trad 3 pitches
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 12
The Goose
Trad, Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 15
Bellyflop
Trad, Sport
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 17
Between The Sheets
Trad 2 pitches
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 3
Wigglin' Fingies
Trad
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 4
Seams Like A Dream
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Original Fantasy Ridge
 13
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 2 pitches
The 37th Cog in Melvin's Wh…
 313
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 3 pitches
East Side
 46
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
Backflip
 146
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Trad 4 pitches
Fantasy Ridge
 89
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 Trad 4 pitches
Joy and Tribulation
 46
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R Trad 3 pitches
Inside Straight
 11
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Star Trek
 9
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a X Trad 3 pitches
Klingon (with direct start)
 4
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 3 pitches
Romulan Territory
 78
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 3 pitches
The Goose
 12
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad, Sport
Bellyflop
 15
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad, Sport
Between The Sheets
 17
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad 2 pitches
Wigglin' Fingies
 3
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad
Seams Like A Dream
 4
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Trad
More Classic Climbs in The Bookmark »

Sun & Shade

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D

Photos