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Routes in The Bookmark

37th Cog in Melvin's Wheel aka Melvin's Wheel, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Backflip T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Bellyflop T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Between The Sheets T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Bookmark OW T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Cave Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Coleman's Complex T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Crack of No Return T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Dead in Bed T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
East Side T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fall Out T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fantasy Ridge T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Goose, The T,S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Inside Straight T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Joy and Tribulation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Klingon (with direct start) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Manhole Cover T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Marginal Line T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Original Fantasy Ridge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Penis Chimney T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Plan A T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Rhythm Method T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
Romulan Territory T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Screamin' Eagles S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Seams Like A Dream T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Skid You Not T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Sojourn T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Son of a Pitch T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Star Trek T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
Time Machine T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Twiggy's Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Virgin Spring T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Wigglin' Fingies T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
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Access Issue: Season raptor closures Details

Description

Actually a subsidiary cliff to the Book, the Bookmark has some fantastic routes and is always less crowded, despite a shorter approach. Romulan Territory is a quintessential Lumpy 5.10 corner climb, and both Melvin's Wheel and Backflip climb beautiful 5.8 cracks and corners. Fantasy Ridge (5.9) is a unique must-do climb. Descent: very confusing. Downclimb or a do a short rappel (if summiting). Get established in either of the recesses (east or west) flanking the rock. Both will necessitate funky down-climbing and/or annoying rappel(s). Many routes end in the recess east of the summit; locate [a 2 bolt anchor with chains through a slot & stance facing the gully. Also, the fin where Fantasy Ridge and Joy and Tribulation top out has a bolted anchor. It is on the corner of the fin between the fin and the summit block, once again pretty obvious chains. From this anchor, a 100 foot rappel down into the gully (towards the Left Book) will deposit you at a hidden sling anchor under a chockstone (not visible from above.) A 50M rope will put you within an easy scramble of this anchor. Then, it's one more short rap and a scramble to the base of the Left Book. This descent is now pretty casual. There is talk of replacing the chain anchors with something less visually offensive.]

Getting There

From the new parking lot, take the west trail towards the old Twin Owls parking lot ~0.6 miles. Then, head west from the old Twin Owls parking lot, turn off right for the Book, and then turn off left for the Bookmark (follow signs). ~40-45 minutes to approach.

33 Total Climbs

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Location: The Bookmark Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at The Bookmark

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 12
Original Fantasy Ridge
Trad 2 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 280
The 37th Cog in Melvin's Wheel aka Me…
Trad 3 pitches
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 42
East Side
Trad 2 pitches
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
 134
Backflip
Trad 4 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
 81
Fantasy Ridge
Trad 4 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
 39
Joy and Tribulation
Trad 3 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
 9
Star Trek
Trad 3 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 3
Klingon (with direct start)
Trad 3 pitches
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 11
Inside Straight
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 68
Romulan Territory
Trad 3 pitches
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 11
The Goose
Trad, Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 15
Bellyflop
Trad, Sport
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 16
Between The Sheets
Trad 2 pitches
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 3
Wigglin' Fingies
Trad
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 3
Seams Like A Dream
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Original Fantasy Ridge
 12
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 2 pitches
The 37th Cog in Melvin's Wh…
 280
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 3 pitches
East Side
 42
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
Backflip
 134
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Trad 4 pitches
Fantasy Ridge
 81
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 Trad 4 pitches
Joy and Tribulation
 39
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R Trad 3 pitches
Star Trek
 9
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X Trad 3 pitches
Klingon (with direct start)
 3
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 3 pitches
Inside Straight
 11
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Trad
Romulan Territory
 68
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 3 pitches
The Goose
 11
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad, Sport
Bellyflop
 15
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad, Sport
Between The Sheets
 16
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad 2 pitches
Wigglin' Fingies
 3
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad
Seams Like A Dream
 3
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Trad
More Classic Climbs in The Bookmark »

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Photos

A note on the rap chains which have replaced the "dead tree" anchors. As you rap into the gully off these chains toward the left book, you'll note two slings and a biner as you are very close to running out of your 60M rope. We put these on 6/28/03 as what used to be there was gone. Jun 28, 2003
Adding to what Pete said above, the usual threaded rap slings in the gully have been removed. Apparently some selfish individual has delegated to the rest of the community their opinon on what constitutes an unacceptable way of descending the Bookmark.

A slung block (blue webbing with rap ring) can be found below by scrambling down the ramp next to the old rap spot. Better yet, if someone reads this who is heading up to the Bookmark, bring some black or grey webbing and a rap ring and re-establish the old rap anchor. Jul 14, 2003
Theo Barker
Formerly Loveland, CO
Theo Barker   Formerly Loveland, CO
There is now two large slings and two rap rings at the 100 ft. mark below the chains, when rapping toward the Left Book. Thanks to those who replaced them. Sep 12, 2003
Kevin Currigan
Lakewood
Kevin Currigan   Lakewood
There is a new (for me) set of bolts and chains on the west side of the notch. About 90' down is a slung chockstone (two slings and two rap rings as of yesterday). This second rap brings you to a little easy scrambling and onto hiking terrain. It's a much better rap than heading down the east gully; especially if your packs are on the west side of the rock. Jun 27, 2005
Be very careful when pulling your rope off of the gully rap. A large rock fell from the gully and almost hit me and my partner. Be careful and have fun up there! Nov 10, 2008
Meg
Moab, UT
Meg   Moab, UT
So, in a moment of sheer stupidity, I dropped my shoe off of the second pitch of Romulan Territory today. Much searching for it afterwards today did not turn it up. So, if anyone finds a left, Scarpa Vision shoe, I would LOVE it back! Thanks - Megan 303-842-2910. Jun 19, 2010
Wes Farrar
DENVER, COLORADO
Wes Farrar   DENVER, COLORADO
My wallet took a 300 foot plunge on the Backflip route. Most of the content was recovered. I lost about $20 in cash. I apologize if anything else is littered on the cliff face. Also my second dropped a runner with Camp Nano biners. Finders keepers. Apr 17, 2017

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