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Areas in Lower Merced River Canyon

0 - Road Closure Crag 0 / 5 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6
1 - Parkline Slab 37 / 15 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 42
2 - Narrow Escape Cliff 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
3 - U.S.G.S. Wall 1 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
4 - Arch Rock 18 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 20
5 - Short Circuit Boulder 0 / 1 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
6 - Finger Lickin' Area 12 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 12
7 - Roadside Attraction 2 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
8 - Kat Pinnacle 1 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 2
9 - Sunshine Cliff 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
10 - The Cookie Cliff 29 / 3 / 2 / 1 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 34
10.5 - East Pillar of the Cookie 6 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 10
11 - The Cookie Sheet 6 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 8
11.5 - The Sugar Cookie 4 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 9
12 - Wildcat Falls & Above the Cookie 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
13 - Knobby Wall 2 / 3 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6
14 - Cascade Area 42 / 9 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 49
15 - Knob Hill 8 / 1 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 9
16 - The Owl 6 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6
17 - This and That Cliff 5 / 1 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 7
18 - Generator Station 2 / 0 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
19 - New Diversions 10 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 11
20 - Goldrush 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
21 - Reed's Pinnacle Area 31 / 2 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 34
22 - Five and Dime Cliff 7 / 7 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 13
23 - The Mojo Tooth Area 6 / 3 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 8
24 - Highway Star 1 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
25 - Last Resort Cliff 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0
26 - Pulpit Rock 6 / 7 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 13
27 - Wawona Tunnel 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
28 - Wawona Tunnel West 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5
29 - Cream 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
30 - The Rostrum 6 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6
31 - The Jungle Gym 9 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 10
32 - Elephant Rock 22 / 6 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 28
33 - Hand Out Cliff 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Access Issue: Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15 Details

Description

Downstream from the Yosemite Valley, but still inside the park boundaries, there are numerous rocks that are mostly less famous, and therefore somewhat less crowded, than the legendary areas to the east.

I followed Don Reid's Yosemite guide sections to put this page together.

Bryan G shared these excellent notes on how the crags fit together.

"And here is rough approximation of what the left/right sorting would be. First, the north side starting at El Portal running east:

Parkline Slab
Narrow Escape Cliff
U.S.G.S. Wall
Arch Rock
Short Circuit Boulder
Finger Lickin' Area
Roadside Attraction
Kat Pinnacle
Sunshine Cliff
Cookie Cliff, The
Cookie Sheet, The
Wildcat Falls & Above the Cookie
Knobby Wall
Cascade Area
Knob Hill
Owl, The
This and That Cliff
Generator Station
New Diversions
Goldrush
Reed's Pinnacle Area
Five and Dime Cliff
Mojo Tooth Area, The
Highway Star
Last Resort Cliff

Then the south side as you move down canyon:

Pulpit Rock
Wawona Tunnel
Wawona Tunnel West
Cream
Rostrum, The
Jungle Gym, The
Elephant Rock
Hand Out Cliff

It's not a perfect geographical representation because I tried to clump some areas together which have a similar approach. This and That, Generator Station, and New Diversions are all approached from the 140 so I think it's better to list them in a sequence, even though Goldrush is technically between them. Hope this helps."

Getting There

On both sides of the Merced River, between Mariposa and the Valley. Many of these areas are reached from State Route 140, which parallels the river, but some areas are easier to reach from other roads.

Guide Books

Many guide books that focus on the Valley itself also include climbs here.

372 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Lower Merced River Canyon

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 321
Reed's Pinnacle-Direct Route
Trad 3 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 85
Midterm
Trad 2 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 80
Gripper
Trad 3 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 232
Lunatic Fringe
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 109
Wheat Thin
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 286
Outer Limits
Trad 2 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 128
Generator Crack
Trad, TR
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 121
Five and Dime
Trad
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 184
Catchy
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 84
Catchy Corner
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 71
New Dimensions
Trad 4 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 90
Waverly Wafer
Trad
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 182
The North Face
Trad 8 pitches
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
 88
Crack-a-Go-Go
Trad
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 96
Butterballs
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Reed's Pinnacle-Direct Route 21 - Reed's Pinnacle…
 321
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 3 pitches
Midterm 4 - Arch Rock
 85
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 2 pitches
Gripper 4 - Arch Rock
 80
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 3 pitches
Lunatic Fringe 21 - Reed's Pinnacle…
 232
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Wheat Thin 10 - The Cookie Cliff
 109
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Outer Limits 10 - The Cookie Cliff
 286
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad 2 pitches
Generator Crack 18 - Generator Station
 128
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad, TR
Five and Dime 22 - Five and Dime Cliff
 121
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad
Catchy 10 - The Cookie Cliff
 184
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad
Catchy Corner 10 - The Cookie Cliff
 84
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
New Dimensions 4 - Arch Rock
 71
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad 4 pitches
Waverly Wafer 10 - The Cookie Cliff
 90
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
The North Face 30 - The Rostrum
 182
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad 8 pitches
Crack-a-Go-Go 10 - The Cookie Cliff
 88
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 Trad
Butterballs 10 - The Cookie Cliff
 96
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad
More Classic Climbs in Lower Merced River Canyon »

Weather Averages

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Justin Johnsen
Sacramento, CA
Justin Johnsen   Sacramento, CA  
When areas on Mountain Project start overflowing off the page, I look for ways to group them that are less overwhelming, for both first time and many time visitors.

The Reid guide to the Yosemite grouped crags in Lower Merced, and then some other groupings within the Valley itself. I found it easier to follow this way.

If our Yosemite climbers' consensus is that it the areas I moved here today work better in the main Yosemite Valley section, I'm glad to move them back.

Thoughts? Opinions?

Thanks. May 12, 2015
Bryan G
Yosemite
Bryan G   Yosemite
I think it makes sense to break it up into smaller sections. There were something like 80 areas listed under the main Valley page, which seems too cluttered. It would actually be nice for MP to have left to right sorting for areas in addition to routes. It could be an optional feature because for some places (like Joshua Tree) it wouldn't make sense. But in a lot of climbing venues (like Yosemite or Ten Sleep) the various crags are pretty much lined up along the rim of a canyon, so left/right sorting would make it a lot easier to find something when you're looking at a long list of "areas".

Some other areas located in the Lower Merced Canyon which should be moved here:
29 - Cream
32 - Elephant Rock
33 - Hand Out Cliff
13 - Knobby Wall
2 - Narrow Escape Cliff
26 - Pulpit Rock
7 - Roadside Attraction
9 - Sunshine Cliff
3 - U.S.G.S. Wall
27 - Wawona Tunnel
28 - Wawona Tunnel West May 13, 2015
Justin Johnsen
Sacramento, CA
Justin Johnsen   Sacramento, CA  
Thanks for the list, Bryan, that made it easy for me to move the ones I was waffling on outside of the book.

I'll add a number and a dash in front of the Lower Merced areas so that they sort left to right alphabetically. This, or letter prefixes, is a workaround several admins use for these linear places. May 13, 2015
""It would actually be a nice for MP to have left to right sorting for areas in addition to routes. It could be an optional feature""

I agree May 15, 2015
C Miller   CA  
Great job on the re-organization! Jun 9, 2015

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