Elevation: 2,989 ft
GPS: 37.694, -119.727 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 716,943 total · 11,400/month
Shared By: Justin Johnsen on May 12, 2015
Admins: M Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes
Access Issue: Latest updates on Covid and 2020 visits. Details

Description

Downstream from the Yosemite Valley, but still inside the park boundaries, there are numerous rocks that are mostly less famous, and therefore somewhat less crowded, than the legendary areas to the east.

I followed Don Reid's Yosemite guide sections to put this page together.

Bryan G shared these excellent notes on how the crags fit together.

"And here is rough approximation of what the left/right sorting would be. First, the north side starting at El Portal running east:

Parkline Slab
Narrow Escape Cliff
U.S.G.S. Wall
Arch Rock
Short Circuit Boulder
Finger Lickin' Area
Roadside Attraction
Kat Pinnacle
Sunshine Cliff
Cookie Cliff, The
Cookie Sheet, The
Wildcat Falls & Above the Cookie
Knobby Wall
Cascade Area
Knob Hill
Owl, The
This and That Cliff
Generator Station
New Diversions
Goldrush
Reed's Pinnacle Area
Five and Dime Cliff
Mojo Tooth Area, The
Highway Star
Last Resort Cliff

Then the south side as you move down canyon:

Pulpit Rock
Wawona Tunnel
Wawona Tunnel West
Cream
Rostrum, The
Jungle Gym, The
Elephant Rock
Hand Out Cliff

It's not a perfect geographical representation because I tried to clump some areas together which have a similar approach. This and That, Generator Station, and New Diversions are all approached from the 140 so I think it's better to list them in a sequence, even though Goldrush is technically between them. Hope this helps."

Getting There

On both sides of the Merced River, between Mariposa and the Valley. Many of these areas are reached from State Route 140, which parallels the river, but some areas are easier to reach from other roads.

Guide Books

Many guide books that focus on the Valley itself also include climbs here.

388 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Lower Merced River Canyon

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 80
New Diversions
Trad 2 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 402
Reed's Pinnacle-Direct Route
Trad 3 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 105
Midterm
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 106
Gripper
Trad 3 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 292
Lunatic Fringe
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 134
Wheat Thin
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 383
Outer Limits
Trad 3 pitches
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 162
Five and Dime
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 116
Catchy Corner
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 100
New Dimensions
Trad 4 pitches
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
 120
Crack-a-Go-Go
Trad
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 129
Butterballs
Trad
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 85
Red Zinger
Trad
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 71
Separate Reality
Trad
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 99
Cookie Monster
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
New Diversions o. New Diversions
 80
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 2 pitches
Reed's Pinnacle-Direct Route p. Reed's Pinna… > Reed's Pinnacle
 402
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 3 pitches
Midterm d. Entrance Sta… > Arch Rock
 105
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Gripper d. Entrance Sta… > Arch Rock
 106
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 3 pitches
Lunatic Fringe p. Reed's Pinna… > Reed's Pinnacle
 292
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Wheat Thin h. Cookie Area > Cookie Cliff
 134
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Outer Limits h. Cookie Area > Cookie Cliff
 383
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad 3 pitches
Five and Dime p. Reed's Pinna… > Five & Dime Cliff
 162
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad
Catchy Corner h. Cookie Area > Cookie Cliff
 116
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
New Dimensions d. Entrance Sta… > Arch Rock
 100
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad 4 pitches
Crack-a-Go-Go h. Cookie Area > Cookie Cliff
 120
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 Trad
Butterballs h. Cookie Area > Cookie Cliff
 129
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad
Red Zinger h. Cookie Area > Cookie Cliff
 85
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad
Separate Reality j. Wildcat Falls & Ab…
 71
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad
Cookie Monster h. Cookie Area > Cookie Cliff
 99
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Lower Merced River Canyon »

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