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Areas in Lower Merced River Canyon

0 - Road Closure Crag 0 / 5 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6
1 - Parkline Slab 37 / 15 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 42
2 - Narrow Escape Cliff 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
3 - U.S.G.S. Wall 1 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
4 - Arch Rock 16 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 17
5 - Short Circuit Boulder 0 / 1 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
6 - Finger Lickin' Area 10 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 10
7 - Roadside Attraction 2 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
8 - Kat Pinnacle 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 1
9 - Sunshine Cliff 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
10 - The Cookie Cliff 28 / 2 / 2 / 1 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 32
11 - The Cookie Sheet 6 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 8
11.5 - The Sugar Cookie 1 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
12 - Wildcat Falls & Above the Cookie 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
13 - Knobby Wall 2 / 3 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6
14 - Cascade Area 39 / 8 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 45
15 - Knob Hill 8 / 1 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 9
16 - The Owl 6 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6
17 - This and That Cliff 5 / 1 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 7
18 - Generator Station 2 / 0 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
19 - New Diversions 10 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 11
20 - Goldrush 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
21 - Reed's Pinnacle Area 29 / 2 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 32
22 - Five and Dime Cliff 7 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 11
23 - The Mojo Tooth Area 6 / 1 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6
24 - Highway Star 1 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
25 - Last Resort Cliff 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0
26 - Pulpit Rock 6 / 7 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 13
27 - Wawona Tunnel 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
28 - Wawona Tunnel West 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5
29 - Cream 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
30 - The Rostrum 6 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6
31 - The Jungle Gym 9 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 10
32 - Elephant Rock 22 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 27
33 - Hand Out Cliff 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Elevation: 2,989 ft
GPS: 37.694, -119.727 Google Map · Climbing Map
Shared By: Justin Johnsen on May 12, 2015
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes
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Description

Downstream from the Yosemite Valley, but still inside the park boundaries, there are numerous rocks that are mostly less famous, and therefore somewhat less crowded, than the legendary areas to the east.

I followed Don Reid's Yosemite guide sections to put this page together.

Bryan G shared these excellent notes on how the crags fit together.

"And here is rough approximation of what the left/right sorting would be. First, the north side starting at El Portal running east:

Parkline Slab
Narrow Escape Cliff
U.S.G.S. Wall
Arch Rock
Short Circuit Boulder
Finger Lickin' Area
Roadside Attraction
Kat Pinnacle
Sunshine Cliff
Cookie Cliff, The
Cookie Sheet, The
Wildcat Falls & Above the Cookie
Knobby Wall
Cascade Area
Knob Hill
Owl, The
This and That Cliff
Generator Station
New Diversions
Goldrush
Reed's Pinnacle Area
Five and Dime Cliff
Mojo Tooth Area, The
Highway Star
Last Resort Cliff

Then the south side as you move down canyon:

Pulpit Rock
Wawona Tunnel
Wawona Tunnel West
Cream
Rostrum, The
Jungle Gym, The
Elephant Rock
Hand Out Cliff

It's not a perfect geographical representation because I tried to clump some areas together which have a similar approach. This and That, Generator Station, and New Diversions are all approached from the 140 so I think it's better to list them in a sequence, even though Goldrush is technically between them. Hope this helps."
Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Getting There

On both sides of the Merced River, between Mariposa and the Valley. Many of these areas are reached from State Route 140, which parallels the river, but some areas are easier to reach from other roads.

Guide Books

Many guide books that focus on the Valley itself also include climbs here.

337 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Lower Merced River Canyon

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mockery
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Reed's Pinnacle-Direct Route
Trad 3 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Knob Job
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Stone Groove
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Lunatic Fringe
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Wheat Thin
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Outer Limits
Trad 2 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sherrie's Crack
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Generator Crack
Trad, TR
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Five and Dime
Trad
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Catchy
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Catchy Corner
Trad
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
The North Face
Trad 8 pitches
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Crack-a-Go-Go
Trad
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Butterballs
Trad
Mockery 22 - Five and Dime Cliff 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Reed's Pinnacle-Direct Route 21 - Reed's Pinnacle Area 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 3 pitches
Knob Job 14 - Cascade Area > Pat and Jack Pinnacle 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Stone Groove 21 - Reed's Pinnacle Area 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Lunatic Fringe 21 - Reed's Pinnacle Area 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Wheat Thin 10 - The Cookie Cliff 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Outer Limits 10 - The Cookie Cliff 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad 2 pitches
Sherrie's Crack 14 - Cascade Area > Pat and Jack Pinnacle 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Generator Crack 18 - Generator Station 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad, TR
Five and Dime 22 - Five and Dime Cliff 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad
Catchy 10 - The Cookie Cliff 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad
Catchy Corner 10 - The Cookie Cliff 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
The North Face 30 - The Rostrum 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad 8 pitches
Crack-a-Go-Go 10 - The Cookie Cliff 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 Trad
Butterballs 10 - The Cookie Cliff 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad
More Classic Climbs in Lower Merced River Canyon »

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C Miller   CA  
Great job on the re-organization! Jun 9, 2015
""It would actually be a nice for MP to have left to right sorting for areas in addition to routes. It could be an optional feature""

I agree May 15, 2015
Justin Johnsen
Nor Cal
Justin Johnsen   Nor Cal  
Thanks for the list, Bryan, that made it easy for me to move the ones I was waffling on outside of the book.

I'll add a number and a dash in front of the Lower Merced areas so that they sort left to right alphabetically. This, or letter prefixes, is a workaround several admins use for these linear places. May 13, 2015
Bryan G
Yosemite
Bryan G   Yosemite
I think it makes sense to break it up into smaller sections. There were something like 80 areas listed under the main Valley page, which seems too cluttered. It would actually be nice for MP to have left to right sorting for areas in addition to routes. It could be an optional feature because for some places (like Joshua Tree) it wouldn't make sense. But in a lot of climbing venues (like Yosemite or Ten Sleep) the various crags are pretty much lined up along the rim of a canyon, so left/right sorting would make it a lot easier to find something when you're looking at a long list of "areas".

Some other areas located in the Lower Merced Canyon which should be moved here:
29 - Cream
32 - Elephant Rock
33 - Hand Out Cliff
13 - Knobby Wall
2 - Narrow Escape Cliff
26 - Pulpit Rock
7 - Roadside Attraction
9 - Sunshine Cliff
3 - U.S.G.S. Wall
27 - Wawona Tunnel
28 - Wawona Tunnel West May 13, 2015
Justin Johnsen
Nor Cal
Justin Johnsen   Nor Cal  
When areas on Mountain Project start overflowing off the page, I look for ways to group them that are less overwhelming, for both first time and many time visitors.

The Reid guide to the Yosemite grouped crags in Lower Merced, and then some other groupings within the Valley itself. I found it easier to follow this way.

If our Yosemite climbers' consensus is that it the areas I moved here today work better in the main Yosemite Valley section, I'm glad to move them back.

Thoughts? Opinions?

Thanks. May 12, 2015

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