Type: Sport
FA: Brian Mullin
Page Views: 9,351 total · 45/month
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on Sep 26, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


201 Opinions

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Description

Hike to the QOB Pinnacle. Just left of the pinnacle are two quite decent lines up black stone. The left of these is Enchanted Porkfist. Chase the bolts on good pockets interspersed with edgy horrizontal seams. Enchanted is a good warm up for the harder lines at The Dark Side. It seems as though we do this line each time we climb here. Moderate climbing, good stone, nice moves.

Protection

Eight draws and a rope.
I can't even remember how many times I've done this route! Absolutely the funnest route in the Dark Side and the perfect introduction into "technical" climbing. It's a little harder now since a foothold broke a couple of years ago, (maybe 10d now), but I do this route every time I visit the Dark Side. All it takes is "balance" :)! Jan 20, 2002
Matt Burns
  5.11a
Matt Burns  
  5.11a
This is a great route and if you do it right, it doesn't require the kind of power or endurance that a lot of the other 10s and 11s at Shelf do. There is also a good 10c or 10d just to the left of it that's worth doing if you're there, along with the .9 to the right. None of these three routes are particularly pumpy, so as a group they make a good long warmup if you're a slow starter. Nov 7, 2003
You're right, Matt, power and endurance isn't worth shite at the "Dark Side" it's all about finese aka "technique and balance", a form of climbing that has all but disappeared from the sport climbing scene. That's why this is my favorite climb at Shelf. Nov 7, 2003
TBlom  
Uhhhhh.... I was pretty pumped, but this climb has some really cool improbable holds. 11a. May 2, 2008
Doug Lintz
Kearney, NE
 
Doug Lintz   Kearney, NE
 
One of my favorite .11s at Shelf and my top pick for the Dark Side. Sep 30, 2008
Tom T  
A really fun and clean line. It would be more stimulating without the tick marks on every hand and foot hold after the crux. May 9, 2009
Greg Daughtry
Boulder, CO
Greg Daughtry   Boulder, CO
The first bolt is a spinner and needs to be tightened. May 7, 2018
Isaac Mauro
Fort Collins, CO
  5.11a
Isaac Mauro   Fort Collins, CO
  5.11a
Had a blast on this line. Solid sustained climbing on small pockets and crimps. Bring your good footwork and balance. Some of the clips are nice and spicy off of small holds which adds to the fun factor. Oct 14, 2018
Evan Crumpecker
Colorado Springs
Evan Crumpecker   Colorado Springs
Maybe 11a if you have the moves dialed or all you do is slab climb. Feels pretty hard for Shelf. Oct 22, 2018