Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Dave Dangle, Rich Aschert, Darryl Roth
Page Views: 646 total · 6/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Jun 6, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


5 Opinions

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Description

Kinesthesia climbs a beautiful panel of slightly bulging stone with powerful cranks on shallow 2-finger pockets. Scramble up to a vegitated ledge, then climb the slight overhang to the first bolt with easy reaches between excellent sinker 3-4 finger pockets. Crux your way between shallow, incut pockets and small edges. The feet are spaced, but great where you need them. Once you reach the 2nd bolt things ease considerably, though it remains interesting with cool pockets up the slab.

Location

Immediately right of "I Scare Myself" and left of "Stink Finger". The second route right of "Teenage Wristband".

Protection

4 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. Stick clip recommended.

Photos

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slim

  5.12a
slim    
  5.12a
Good climbing but unfortunately soiled by a pair of drilled 2 finger pockets at the end of the business. If you are going to drill pockets, at least radius the lip a bit.... The hardware is in bad shape. I would recommend stick clipping the first bolt, but this is basically impossible due to the spinning, homemade hanger. Jun 3, 2013
Alvaro Arnal
Aspen, CO
 
Alvaro Arnal   Aspen, CO  
 
This is a worthwhile route to do while in the area, but as Slim mentioned, the first bolt is in really bad shape. Luckily I didn't fall on it, but as I was lowering, I noticed that the nut was halfway off the bolt. I tried to finger tighten it, but rust on the threads kept me from getting it tight. It was then that I noticed that the bolt is rusted all the way into the rock! Seeing as this bolt protects the crux and is the only thing between a falling person and the ground, it should get replaced ASAP!

I didn't notice any drilled pockets on this route, however, and I thought that the movement and rock was really fun. Sep 22, 2013
Original bolts + anchor replaced with 1/2" SS in 2018. Tools provided by The Access Fund, all hardware courtesy of the ASCA. Consider a donation @ safeclimbing.org. Nice rock and movement. Jun 28, 2018