Type: Sport
FA: unknown
Page Views: 942 total · 5/month
Shared By: Jeff Lockyer on Oct 7, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


58 Opinions

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Description

This route is located just to the right of "Suspender Man" and can be spotted with brand new, shiny hangers in place. To find this route, spot the obvious dihedral with a large block leaning against the wall to its left.

This climb starts almost in the cave formed by the large block and uses the leftmost pillar of the wall. The climbing on this route is simply NOT FUN. At the top of the route, you can choose to go left or right, going left would put you against the wall to the left. Going right would place you in the crack to the right. The straight up version of the route would increase the difficulty quite a bit and either way is certianly not fun. Getting to the anchors could also be a hard crux for shorter people (under 5'5") - commitment.

Try another route everybody.

Per llamaface: this route climbs a beautiful pillar. It starts a little uncomfortable, jumping in and out of a large crack to clip bolts on the face. After the second bolt it traverses left across the face on some painful "cheese grater rock" and then uses the left arete and face to climb the rest. The top is very cool, hugging the pillar's two aretes to make the anchors. Watch out for that flash pump near the top.

Eds. This is a combination of 2 submissions moved to the 1st submission's page to avoid duplication and confusion.

Location

This is to the left of "Thank Heaven for Little Girls", and just behind "Suspender Man".

Protection

6 bolts and a 2 bolt anchor.

Photos

Mike Anderson
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.10b
Mike Anderson   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.10b
Hmmm...I thought this one was pretty fun. I think if you climb it the "hard way" it's a lot better but probably makes it 10c or so. It's really good rock with cool pockets and incuts. May 26, 2005
Scott Miller
Denver, CO
 
Scott Miller   Denver, CO
 
Thunk this route was pretty fun too! Different moves, cool rock, good start to the day.... May 17, 2006
Livia
Moose Jaw, SK
 
Livia   Moose Jaw, SK
 
Another vote for 5.not-fun. It could always be my climbing of course, but this route generally felt awkward and without flow. Jun 9, 2006
Doug Lintz
Kearney, NE
 
Doug Lintz   Kearney, NE
 
Not a very compelling line. May 15, 2007
Niccole
Denver, CO
  5.10a
Niccole   Denver, CO
  5.10a
This felt really awkward - danced across between the two cracks. Need some beta to hook those anchors. Jun 9, 2009
Bruno Hache
Longmont, CO
Bruno Hache   Longmont, CO
This route is much more fun if you climb it on the arete and not using the crack on the right except at the flake-chockstone. Probably about 5.10+ or about. Apr 22, 2014
T G
Boulder, CO
 
T G   Boulder, CO
 
Note that there's an extremely loose plate of rock wedged in the crack to the right of the 4th bolt. Oct 10, 2016
Anna Cohen
Lawrence, KS
  5.9+
Anna Cohen   Lawrence, KS
  5.9+
I found this climb to be a lot more fun considering I climbed the crack rather than the actual face/arete which definitely softened the grade to 5.9+. Jul 26, 2018