I Scare Myself
5.11b YDS 6c French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E3 5c British R
Avg: 2.8 from 11 votes
Routes in The Dark Side
27 Tons S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a | |
Acetylcholine S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a | |
Animatronic S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c | |
Asym S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a | |
Audition, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b | |
Beginner's Outing S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Black 'N Dicey S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a | |
Black Awareness S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a | |
Black Dihedral T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Blank Frank S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a | |
Bonnie S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b | |
Call From Overseas S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a | |
Captain Caveman S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b | |
Clyde S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c | |
Corner Pockets S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b | |
Counter Balance S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 | |
Crack Happens S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c | |
Crack's On Top, The S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c | |
Crown of Thorns aka Box Lunch aka Lou Raven's Rest S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c | |
Dark Side Roofs S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c | |
Eagle Has Landed, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b | |
Eat, Drink, and Beat Larry S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b | |
Edge Of Fright S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b | |
El Guapo S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a | |
Enchanted Porkfist S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c | |
Everybody Was Here S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Face The Music S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c | |
Fat Like Butta S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a | |
Fight or Flight S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a | |
Fragile S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a | |
Go East, Old Man S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a | |
Gully Boys S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b | |
I Scare Myself T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R | |
In the Realm of Hungry Ghosts S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a | |
Karen S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a | |
Kashmere S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b | |
Kinesthesia S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a | |
Levels of the Game S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a | |
Line of Strength S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R | |
Lumina S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Man in Black S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a | |
Mannequin S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b | |
Missing Hangers aka Hangers Regained S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a | |
Muted by Reality S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c | |
Papillion S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a | |
Plum, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a | |
Porkus Procurement S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b | |
Puddle Of Holes S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R | |
Punjabi S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a | |
Red Devil S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b | |
Redlined S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a | |
Rip It S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c | |
Route Fluffer S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b | |
Shelf Road Virgin S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a | |
Show Me Your Bolts S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Slap Me S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a | |
Stink Finger S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c | |
Stuck in the Middle With You S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c | |
Suspender Man S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a | |
Swinging Richards S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b | |
Teenage Wristband S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a | |
Thank Heaven for Little Girls S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b | |
Trolling For Holds S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b | |
Two Hearts S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a | |
U Pump It S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a | |
Unknown S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b | |
Unknown But Worth Doing S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b | |
Viaggro S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a | |
Void Lloyd S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a | |
Warm Busch Beer T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Way We Were, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 | |
Welcoming, The S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a | |
Whisper To A Scream S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Type: | Trad, Sport, 50 ft (15 m) |
FA: | Dave Dangle, Rich Aschert, Darryl Roth, 1988 |
Page Views: | 1,302 total · 7/month |
Shared By: | Monomaniac on Jun 6, 2009 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
I Scare Myself is an excellent, sustained pocket route that is unfortunately marred by a heinous runout to the first bolt.
Begin up a vegitated ledge, then up to a shallow right-facing corner, that fades into another shallow, right-facing corner up & left. It would be possible to place some sketchy finger-sized gear in either of these corners. Punch up over a slight bulge on incut shallow pockets past the first bolt. Long reaches between good pockets with sparse feet lead to slabbier climbing and a diagonaling crack. It's possible to avoid the crack to extend the excellent pocket section by staying right on the bolt line, but this is a bit contrived.
Begin up a vegitated ledge, then up to a shallow right-facing corner, that fades into another shallow, right-facing corner up & left. It would be possible to place some sketchy finger-sized gear in either of these corners. Punch up over a slight bulge on incut shallow pockets past the first bolt. Long reaches between good pockets with sparse feet lead to slabbier climbing and a diagonaling crack. It's possible to avoid the crack to extend the excellent pocket section by staying right on the bolt line, but this is a bit contrived.
Protection
3 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor. The first bolt is ~30 feet up, and can't be reached with a stick clip. Finger-sized gear can be placed in the opening corner, which would make the route G-rated if the gear were solid (?).
Another option is to climb Kinesthesia first, and clip the rope into the first bolt of I Scare Myself while lowering. Yet another option would be to stick clip the first bolt of Kinesthesia.
Another option is to climb Kinesthesia first, and clip the rope into the first bolt of I Scare Myself while lowering. Yet another option would be to stick clip the first bolt of Kinesthesia.
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