Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,775 total · 12/month
Shared By: david goldstein on Sep 21, 2006 with updates from Cameron Casey
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


90 Opinions

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Description

I don't have too much to say about this pitch except that contrary to the guidebook, it's well worth doing. (Some of the quality and difficulty ratings at the TDS needed more fact checking.) It felt a little tough in the grade, especially around the 3rd or 4th bolt where the reach impaired will find a difficult clip.

Combine this with the adjacent and equally worthy Edge of Fright for some enjoyable warming up.

The route is near the right end of TDS, one climb right of Edge of Fright.

Protection

6 bolts.

Photos

Tim Stich
Colorado Springs, Colorado
 
Tim Stich   Colorado Springs, Colorado
 
Some very nice Ushba glue-ins have been equipped on this route, which may outlast the rock itself. It's definitely a nice route, with even some hand jamming thrown in. Sep 10, 2007
Kat A
Boulder, CO
Kat A   Boulder, CO
I am reach impaired (5'4", 0 ape factor) but don't recall difficulties clipping the bolts (selective memory?). I recommend this route if you're at the Dark Side. Sep 11, 2007
Ivan Rezucha
Fort Collins, CO
 
Ivan Rezucha   Fort Collins, CO
 
Two cruxes, a hand jam move with not much for the feet midway, and a high step over the roof at the top. Good rests before each crux. There's a "10A" scratched in the rock at the base, presumably by the first ascent party. Apr 4, 2011
Culver
Colorado Springs, CO
Culver   Colorado Springs, CO
Good warm up for the harder stuff around this climb. Jun 15, 2011
Haley Young
Boulder, CO
 
Haley Young   Boulder, CO
 
This route was chalked as a 9+ from the craggin classic two weekends before I climbed the route.

Very fun route,slightly tricky roof. Worth the warm up! Nov 7, 2016