Type: Sport
FA: Ed Schmitt
Page Views: 3,057 total · 15/month
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on Sep 26, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


210 Opinions

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Description

Behind and just left of QOB Pinnacle, Lumina appears to start in a grungy crack-like thing (at least I always have!). Move out right to the face after 10 - 15 ft and the climbing returns to fine pockets with the occasional horrizontal seam thrown in. If you need a second warm up, Lumina is recommended. Good rock, clean pockets, continuous 5.9 climbing. This line has a bit of run-out in getting to the anchor, but the angle drops back a bit and the final climbing is very much on the feet and substantially easier than the middle 40 ft. Nice climbing, nothing very complex.

Protection

Eight draws and a rope.

Photos

I think you may have a typo here. The is rated 5.9 in the book and climbs like a it also. Sep 28, 2001
I second the "typo" thing. I (and most books, fellow climbers, friends,etc. rate Lumina from 5.8-5.10a depending on the conditions and number of beers the night before. I prefer to climb it as a warm-up for "Porkfist" before moving on to the "business" of the day. Dec 27, 2001
Richard M. Wright
Lakewood, CO
  5.9
Richard M. Wright   Lakewood, CO
  5.9
Yup. Thanks for double checking. Feb 13, 2002
Sean O'Dell  
 
Pretty sustained but most of the clipping stances throw you a bone with a ledge or a big pocket. Definitely a 9 though...if this route is .8 then something like, say, Period Piece is a .6. Mar 30, 2004
Larry Shaw
  5.8+
Larry Shaw  
  5.8+
Thought it was a great route but felt easier than most the .9's that day. If this crack were in the South Platte it would be a .7. Jul 12, 2005
Jo Holloway
  5.9
Jo Holloway  
  5.9
This route is rated as a 5.8 by Knapp et al. in the Sharp End guidebook. It most certainly isn't, but it is a solid 5.9, and worth the climb. The 5.9 rating is merited by some good rests and decent handholds throughout. There are a couple of handcrack moves to keep things fun if you care to. May 8, 2006
lbishop
Durango, CO
  5.8
lbishop   Durango, CO
  5.8
I agree w/ L.S., if this route were in the SPlatte it would be graded 5.7. Fun moves on this one with a couple sharp handjams through the crux. Big fun! Nov 5, 2007
Lordsokol
Boulder, CO
  5.8
Lordsokol   Boulder, CO
  5.8
I really wouldn't rate this as a 5.9. It was certainly a fantastic climb, and I gave it 4 stars, because it is long and spicy. I would call it a solid 5.8, but not much more. There are plenty of rests throughout, and every time you need a hold, it is there for you. Also, the bolt placement alone makes it fairly easy compared to most crack climbs. Jun 9, 2008
Larry Rossi
Colorado Springs
Larry Rossi   Colorado Springs
The left bolt at the anchor is a bit loose. I don't think it's dangerous yet, but this is such a popular route that it might become a problem.

I don't have any bolting skills to fix it, but if anyone wants to do so, I'll pony up for the gear and give a belay. Sep 6, 2009
FYI: Bolt 4 and the left anchor bolt are loose and were moving away from the rock. They probably need to be replaced, not tightened. Made the route a little more interesting. Sep 28, 2009