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Routes in The Dark Side

27 Tons S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Acetylcholine S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Animatronic S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Asym S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Audition, The S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Beginner's Outing S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Black 'N Dicey S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Black Awareness S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Black Dihedral T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Blank Frank S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Bonnie S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Call From Overseas S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Clyde S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Corner Pockets S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Counter Balance S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Crack Happens S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Crack's On Top, The S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Crown of Thorns aka Box Lunch aka Lou Raven's Rest S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Dark Side Roofs S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Eagle has Landed, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Eat, Drink, and Beat Larry S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Edge Of Fright S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
El Guapo S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Enchanted Porkfist S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Face The Music S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Fat Like Butta S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Fight or Flight S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Fragile S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Go East, Old Man S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
I Scare Myself T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Kashmere S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Kinesthesia S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Levels of the Game S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Line of Strength S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R
Lumina S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Man in Black S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Mannequin S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Missing Hangers aka Hangers Regained S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Muted by Reality S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Plum, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Porkus Procurement S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Puddle Of Holes S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Punjabi S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Red Devil S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Redlined S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Rip It S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Route Fluffer S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Shelf Road Virgin S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Stink Finger S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Stuck in the Middle With You S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Suspender Man S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Swinging Richards S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Teenage Wristband S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Thank Heaven for Little Girls S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Trolling For Holds S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Two Hearts S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
U Pump It S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Unknown S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unknown But Worth Doing S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Viaggro S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Void Lloyd S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Warm Busch Beer T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Way We Were, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Welcoming, The S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Whisper To A Scream S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Sport
FA: Ed Schmitt
Page Views: 2,869 total · 14/month
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on Sep 26, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description [Suggest Change]

Behind and just left of QOB Pinnacle, Lumina appears to start in a grungy crack-like thing (at least I always have!). Move out right to the face after 10 - 15 ft and the climbing returns to fine pockets with the occasional horrizontal seam thrown in. If you need a second warm up, Lumina is recommended. Good rock, clean pockets, continuous 5.9 climbing. This line has a bit of run-out in getting to the anchor, but the angle drops back a bit and the final climbing is very much on the feet and substantially easier than the middle 40 ft. Nice climbing, nothing very complex.

Protection [Suggest Change]

Eight draws and a rope.

Photos

I think you may have a typo here. The is rated 5.9 in the book and climbs like a it also. Sep 28, 2001
I second the "typo" thing. I (and most books, fellow climbers, friends,etc. rate Lumina from 5.8-5.10a depending on the conditions and number of beers the night before. I prefer to climb it as a warm-up for "Porkfist" before moving on to the "business" of the day. Dec 27, 2001
Richard M. Wright
Lakewood, CO
 
Richard M. Wright   Lakewood, CO
 
Yup. Thanks for double checking. Feb 13, 2002
Sean O'Dell  
 
Pretty sustained but most of the clipping stances throw you a bone with a ledge or a big pocket. Definitely a 9 though...if this route is .8 then something like, say, Period Piece is a .6. Mar 30, 2004
Larry Shaw
  5.8+
Larry Shaw  
  5.8+
Thought it was a great route but felt easier than most the .9's that day. If this crack were in the South Platte it would be a .7. Jul 12, 2005
Jo Holloway
  5.9
Jo Holloway  
  5.9
This route is rated as a 5.8 by Knapp et al. in the Sharp End guidebook. It most certainly isn't, but it is a solid 5.9, and worth the climb. The 5.9 rating is merited by some good rests and decent handholds throughout. There are a couple of handcrack moves to keep things fun if you care to. May 8, 2006
lbishop
Durango, CO
  5.8
lbishop   Durango, CO
  5.8
I agree w/ L.S., if this route were in the SPlatte it would be graded 5.7. Fun moves on this one with a couple sharp handjams through the crux. Big fun! Nov 5, 2007
Lordsokol
Boulder, CO
  5.8
Lordsokol   Boulder, CO
  5.8
I really wouldn't rate this as a 5.9. It was certainly a fantastic climb, and I gave it 4 stars, because it is long and spicy. I would call it a solid 5.8, but not much more. There are plenty of rests throughout, and every time you need a hold, it is there for you. Also, the bolt placement alone makes it fairly easy compared to most crack climbs. Jun 9, 2008
Larry Rossi
Colorado Springs
Larry Rossi   Colorado Springs
The left bolt at the anchor is a bit loose. I don't think it's dangerous yet, but this is such a popular route that it might become a problem.

I don't have any bolting skills to fix it, but if anyone wants to do so, I'll pony up for the gear and give a belay. Sep 6, 2009
FYI: Bolt 4 and the left anchor bolt are loose and were moving away from the rock. They probably need to be replaced, not tightened. Made the route a little more interesting. Sep 28, 2009

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