Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Kelly Baldwin and Bob D'Antonio
Page Views: 1,649 total · 9/month
Shared By: Ron Olsen on Apr 16, 2004
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


46 Opinions

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Description

Just left of Puddle of Holes is a pocket-covered face. Start on a ledge a few feet off the trail. Clip the first bolt and make a hard move to a hole and flake. Climb up the steep face and make another hard move getting past the fourth bolt. Reach a two-bolt anchor.

Protection

Four bolts will get you to a two-bolt anchor.

Photos

Matt Chan
Denver
Matt Chan   Denver
Funny how when entering the Bank, the sign clearly states that only 2-3 star routes should be bolted, yet the FA gives the line (among others) only 1 star. Apr 20, 2004
Adam Brink
on the road
Adam Brink   on the road
matt- in defense of those putting in the hard work to bolt all of these routes, besides a visual guess, often one has to do a route to figure out it's quality. while i dissaprove of bolting in a lot of climbing areas, shelf is one of the places where it seems ok. and while bob might put up the occasional route of marginal quality at shelf, he has also put up plenty of mega classic routes as well. if anyone should be bolting there, he should be one of them. Apr 20, 2004
ac
ac  
Matt, in Bob's defense, this route is not at the Bank... it's at the Dark Side. Apr 20, 2004
Matt Chan
Denver
Matt Chan   Denver
Agreed, it is a little hasty to judge a route with climbing it first, but I was going on Bob's opinion of the quality (star rating). So routes of marginal quality are now acceptable because there are routes of similar to worse quality in the area? Granted, Shelf has an abundance of route possibilities, but is it necessary to add another route of less-than-stellar quality? Should we ask the BLM edit the signage in the Bank campground to now say _bolt whatever you want - this is Shelf_? I know this topic has been beaten to death on this and other sites, but at times bolting ethics at Shelf seem to be an afterthought. My two cents, for what its worth. Apr 21, 2004
Adam Brink
on the road
Adam Brink   on the road
Maybe you missed the point of what I was saying. Often you only know the quality of a climb after it has been climbed. If the climb looks like it might be of decent quality (as is the case with this climb), then how else are you going to judge it's real quality besides climbing it? As it seems you climb at Shelf maybe you should be thanking these guys for bolting instead of harassing them. One has to accept that in the process of finding classics a couple not so classic climbs will be put up. Apr 21, 2004
Matt Chan
Denver
Matt Chan   Denver
You're all right, I should spend more time doing work and less time starting shit. Climb on guys. Apr 21, 2004
Darin Lang
  5.10b
Darin Lang  
  5.10b
Fun, albeit short climb. Similar to Puddle of Holes. Jun 1, 2004
Ben Burnett
Colorado
  5.10b
Ben Burnett   Colorado
  5.10b
I thought the route was 3 star material, fun movement on good pockets with lots of variations possible. It has much better climbing and bolting than its neighbor (Puddle of Holes)- and it's a little harder in my opinion. It would be a a classic in my book if it were twice as long.

Just goes to show that one man's 1 star is another's 3 star! May 18, 2008
Ivan Rezucha
Fort Collins, CO
  5.10b
Ivan Rezucha   Fort Collins, CO
  5.10b
This felt quite hard to me. It's a ledge fall from the second bolt, but the clip is easy if you step a little right to get in balance. I did not and was pretty out of balance. The third bolt was hard to clip, and the move there was hard to figure out. There I took my only unplanned leader fall in 39 years or so of self belaying onto my Silent Partner. It still works after 10 years of use. (Yes, there are planned lead falls. My only other fall onto the Silent Partner was planned when I let go with gear at my waist only to fall 20'.) Apr 4, 2011
This route is just Shelf Road Virgin. Don't get confused. This should be taken off of mountain project so other people don't get confused.

Eds. This comment was moved from the prior route to here and left to avoid deletion without your permission. Oct 16, 2018
Michael Amato
  5.9+
Michael Amato  
  5.9+
Tim, it appears you are correct. Perhaps the administrators can consolidate the information, move the image, etc. I will contact them. Thank you.

Eds. This comment was moved from the prior route to here and left to avoid deletion without your permission. Oct 16, 2018