Type: Sport
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,862 total · 9/month
Shared By: Old Fart aka Dave Bohn on Dec 27, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


29 Opinions

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Description

The Dark Side is the "technicians choice" of Shelf. Vertical to barely slabbing (don't judge these routes' steepness by how they look from the trail), these routes inspire the ballet dancer in all who attempt the climbs here!

Blank Frank is a great dance up one of the best faces in the Dark Side. A few moves up less then perfect rock soon gain the long, very sustained crux on small crimps and side-pulls to a great rest ledge below the final roof-bulge. A devious sequence on monos and underclings gets you over the roof and to the anchors.

Protection

8 bolts + anchors.

Photos

Jesse Ryan  
 
Excellent route! Great battle through the pump and sequences all the way to the anchors. Rock quality is only a bit lower near bottom, and didn't detract from my experience. A must do, three stars IMHO. Apr 29, 2002
Joe Collins  
 
Best route I've done on the Dark Side. I thought the crux was the mono/undercling sequence near the top. Jun 1, 2004
C Miller   CA  
Evan Crumpecker
Colorado Springs
 
Evan Crumpecker   Colorado Springs
 
Great route but sharp. This route could seriously use a gear upgrade. Mar 17, 2018
Original bolts + anchor replaced with 1/2" SS in 2018. Tools provided by The Access Fund, all hardware courtesy of the ASCA. Consider a donation @ safeclimbing.org. Fantastic route, climbs much better than it looks. Jun 28, 2018
Evan Crumpecker
Colorado Springs
 
Evan Crumpecker   Colorado Springs
 
Thanks for the upgrade, Nate!

This is my favorite route at The Dark Side now that it has nice, modern anchors. Oct 22, 2018