Type: Sport
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,090 total · 15/month
Shared By: Walt Wehner on Sep 28, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


65 Opinions

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Description

Suspender Man is easy to find. Hike east along the base of the cliff until you come to a huge slab of limestone leaning up against the main wall. Suspender Man tackles the back side of this slab. It's a fun (though short) route on cool overhanging pockets - and it's unbelieveably slippery. Very different from most of the stuff at the Dark Side, and definitely worth doing.

Protection

Can't remember if it's 4 or 5 bolts. I think it's 4. 2 bolt anchor at the top.

Photos

Jeff Lockyer
Canmore, AB
Jeff Lockyer   Canmore, AB
Don't let the rating Matt has palced on here fool you. It is harder than 5.11, I think it is solid 11c/d as the guide book states, an excellent route which is steeper than is looks from the ground. One of my favorites in the Dark Side. 3 Stars. Oct 12, 2001
At least 11d if not 12a and getting more polished at the start all the time. Great climb and a great hang-out when the weather gets hot. Jan 4, 2002
Mike Anderson
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.11d
Mike Anderson   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.11d
This thing is all of 11d...especially if you're a thin face techno-weenie like myself (and most Shelf climbers). This thing must have been really popular back in the day to have rock that polished. It's the most polished route I've seen at Shelf! Really good rock, though and a cool crux. May 26, 2005
erik wellborn
manitou springs
erik wellborn   manitou springs
Fun route. Steep and polished, more like Rifle than Shelf. 11d seems pretty stout. Aug 11, 2008
Jeff Welch
Denver, CO
  5.12a
Jeff Welch   Denver, CO
  5.12a
Great route! A V4-ish boulder problem past the first two bolts leads into easier, but still steep and tough climbing. Definitely stiff for the grade... I wouldn't feel too bad calling it 5.12a, and this is my style. Might be harder if you're short.
A stick clip is wise for the first bolt, and prehanging the draw on the second bolt makes that clip a lot less reachy. Aug 25, 2008
eric larson
aurora, co
  5.11d
eric larson   aurora, co
  5.11d
Once you figured out the beta on the reachy move, this felt pretty 11d. It's just very atypical of other Shelf routes.

Really fun route though...didn't feel THAT polished...lots of chalk yes, but the holds are big enough and positive enough that it didn't pose an issue. Sep 29, 2008
llamaface
Northglenn, CO
 
llamaface   Northglenn, CO
 
Does anyone have any good beta for the "reachy move"? I did the move (after about 15 attempts) with a heel hook out right and I barely got my finger tips on the bottom of the flat edge, and bumped up. It was extremely strenuous. Just the one move itself felt a lot harder than V4! I can see the rest of the route being 5.11, but come on, what am I missing :)(And PLEASE don't tell me to use that crap intermediate....) Dec 1, 2008
Rico
Aurora, CO
  5.12a
Rico   Aurora, CO
  5.12a
I'm 5'6" and I thought the reachy move was extremely hard. Felt like a 12a move to me. My partner who is over 6' had no trouble getting it. He said the start was harder. Jun 2, 2009
Colin Kenneth
San Francisco, CA
 
Colin Kenneth   San Francisco, CA
 
I stick clipped the first, but didn't think to pre-hang the 2nd. I am guessing it was bolted on rappel otherwise whoever bolted it must have 4 foot long arms. I had to hold the dogbone and pummel the hangar with my draw until it clipped while at nearly a full lock-off. I'm 5'11" ish with a +1.5 and it getting the draw in was a long reach. the rest is powerful and uber-pumpy but really fun. Aug 9, 2009
jarthur
Westminster, CO
 
jarthur   Westminster, CO
 
I do a lockoff and a right (polished) heel hook. Another way to do it is to toe in with you right foot and reach up. Both ways are hard, but one might fit your style better than the other. The intermediate is a sandbag. It's not really a hold, but more of a hold that shorter people are praying to use to get to the good crimp. Sep 9, 2009
ROCKMAN2
Nederland, CO
ROCKMAN2   Nederland, CO
Sand bag. Great fun nonetheless. May 8, 2017