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Routes in The Dark Side

27 Tons S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Acetylcholine S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Animatronic S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Asym S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Audition, The S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Beginner's Outing S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Black 'N Dicey S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Black Awareness S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Black Dihedral T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Blank Frank S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Bonnie S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Call From Overseas S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Clyde S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Corner Pockets S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Counter Balance S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Crack Happens S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Crack's On Top, The S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Crown of Thorns aka Box Lunch aka Lou Raven's Rest S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Dark Side Roofs S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Eagle has Landed, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Eat, Drink, and Beat Larry S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Edge Of Fright S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
El Guapo S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Enchanted Porkfist S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Face The Music S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Fat Like Butta S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Fight or Flight S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Fragile S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Go East, Old Man S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
I Scare Myself T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Kashmere S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Kinesthesia S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Levels of the Game S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Line of Strength S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R
Lumina S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Man in Black S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Mannequin S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Missing Hangers aka Hangers Regained S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Muted by Reality S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Plum, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Porkus Procurement S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Puddle Of Holes S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Punjabi S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Red Devil S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Redlined S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Rip It S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Route Fluffer S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Shelf Road Virgin S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Stink Finger S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Stuck in the Middle With You S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Suspender Man S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Swinging Richards S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Teenage Wristband S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Thank Heaven for Little Girls S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Trolling For Holds S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Two Hearts S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
U Pump It S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Unknown S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Unknown But Worth Doing S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Viaggro S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Void Lloyd S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Warm Busch Beer T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Way We Were, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Welcoming, The S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Whisper To A Scream S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 65 ft
FA: Dave Dangle
Page Views: 861 total, 10/month
Shared By: Monty on Aug 9, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

A steep boulder start builds the pump to a descent rest at a jug. Pull the crux stepping up to a bolted finger crack. Smear and jam your way to the anchor. Pumpy, sustained, and very technical. Awesome!

Location

This is located about 75 feet right of Suspender Man just left of the prow Trolling for Holds.

Protection

8 bolts? + anchor.

Photos

AOSR
Wherever we park!
 
AOSR   Wherever we park!
 
Excellent line that has apparently been retro'ed or rebolted. Not sure why the anchors weren't also replaced as they are pretty bad. Crux for me was when the feet disappear before gaining the crack. Pumpy start, techy middle, cool crack finish. Solid for the grade. Oct 17, 2016
slim

  5.11d
slim    
  5.11d
I thought this one felt at least as hard, probably harder than the 12a immediately to the left (go east old man). My first time I was reluctant to head to the finger crack and tried to stay more in line with the bolts - this felt like 5.way-out-of-my-pay-grade. Second time was a lot better but still felt pretty hard.

All 3 routes on this buttress could use some hardware love. May 20, 2013
Darryl Roth  
 
This is a Dave Dangle FA. Richard Aschert and I were along for the ride. Thanks to Dave for another great one! Apr 16, 2012