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Routes in The Dark Side
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27 Tons S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Acetylcholine S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Animatronic S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Asym S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Audition, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Beginner's Outing S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Black 'N Dicey S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Black Awareness S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Black Dihedral T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Blank Frank S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Bonnie S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Call From Overseas S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Captain Caveman S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Clyde S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Corner Pockets S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Counter Balance S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Crack Happens S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Crack's On Top, The S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Crown of Thorns aka Box Lunch aka Lou Raven's Rest S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Dark Side Roofs S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Eagle Has Landed, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Eat, Drink, and Beat Larry S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Edge Of Fright S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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El Guapo S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Enchanted Porkfist S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Everybody Was Here S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Face The Music S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Fat Like Butta S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Fight or Flight S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Fragile S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Go East, Old Man S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Gully Boys S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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I Scare Myself T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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In the Realm of Hungry Ghosts S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Karen S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Kashmere S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Kinesthesia S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Levels of the Game S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Line of Strength S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R |
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Lumina S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Man in Black S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Mannequin S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Missing Hangers aka Hangers Regained S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Muted by Reality S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Papillion S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Play Stupid Games, Win Stupid Prizes S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Plum, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Porkus Procurement S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Puddle Of Holes S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Punjabi S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Red Devil S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Redlined S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Rip It S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Route Fluffer S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Shelf Road Virgin S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Show Me Your Bolts S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Slap Me S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Stink Finger S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Stuck in the Middle With You S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Suspender Man S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Swinging Richards S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Teenage Wristband S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Thank Heaven for Little Girls S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Trolling For Holds S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Two Hearts S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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U Pump It S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Unknown S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Unknown But Worth Doing S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Viaggro S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Void Lloyd S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Warm Busch Beer T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Way We Were, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Welcoming, The S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Whisper To A Scream S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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| Type: | Sport |
| FA: | Mark Van Horn, 1999 |
| Page Views: | 1,469 total · 5/month |
| Shared By: | Old Fart aka Dave Bohn on Jan 20, 2002 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
I've always looked at this slab when warming up on "Porkfist" and was delighted when I saw the bolts on it a couple of years back. I jumped on it after a quick warmup, without knowing it's name or rating. The photo calls this "Porkus Procurement," but that route actually starts just a foot or two from Porkfist. The dotted line on the photo is the slab I'm talking about, roughly 20' left of Porkfist-Porkus-Lumina. Start up a very sandy, vegetated low-angle slab to gain the first bolt. (If not for this run out and dirty start, I would have given this a 3 star rating.) Follow a line of bolts up an increasingly steep slab using the arete on the right at the start but moving back towards the center for the crux bulging headwall on slightly "Prickly" holds. I felt the bolt placements on this route were the most thoughtful of any Shelf route I've been on. Hats off to the bolter whoever it was (I was told maybe Van Horn?)!
ADMIN NOTE: This description was previously listed under the title "Stink Finger", but after examining the comments, the descriptions & climbing Stink Finger, it's apparent that the route described here is the route listed in the 2005 Sharp End Guidebook as "Punjabi". If anyone else has a different opinion, please add a comment! - Monomaniac, 6 Jun 2009
ADMIN NOTE: This description was previously listed under the title "Stink Finger", but after examining the comments, the descriptions & climbing Stink Finger, it's apparent that the route described here is the route listed in the 2005 Sharp End Guidebook as "Punjabi". If anyone else has a different opinion, please add a comment! - Monomaniac, 6 Jun 2009
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