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Routes in The Dark Side

27 Tons S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Acetylcholine S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Animatronic S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Asym S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Audition, The S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Beginner's Outing S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Black 'N Dicey S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Black Awareness S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Black Dihedral T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Blank Frank S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Bonnie S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Call From Overseas S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Clyde S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Corner Pockets S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Counter Balance S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Crack Happens S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Crack's On Top, The S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Crown of Thorns aka Box Lunch aka Lou Raven's Rest S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Dark Side Roofs S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Eagle has Landed, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Eat, Drink, and Beat Larry S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Edge Of Fright S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
El Guapo S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Enchanted Porkfist S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Face The Music S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Fat Like Butta S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Fight or Flight S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Fragile S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Go East, Old Man S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
I Scare Myself T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Kashmere S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Kinesthesia S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Levels of the Game S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Line of Strength S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R
Lumina S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Man in Black S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Mannequin S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Missing Hangers aka Hangers Regained S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Muted by Reality S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Plum, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Porkus Procurement S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Puddle Of Holes S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Punjabi S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Red Devil S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Redlined S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Rip It S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Route Fluffer S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Shelf Road Virgin S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Stink Finger S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Stuck in the Middle With You S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Suspender Man S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Swinging Richards S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Teenage Wristband S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Thank Heaven for Little Girls S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Trolling For Holds S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Two Hearts S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
U Pump It S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Unknown S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Unknown But Worth Doing S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Viaggro S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Void Lloyd S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Warm Busch Beer T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Way We Were, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Welcoming, The S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Whisper To A Scream S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport
FA: Mark Van Horn, 1999
Page Views: 685 total, 4/month
Shared By: Old Fart aka Dave Bohn on Jan 20, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

I've always looked at this slab when warming up on "Porkfist" and was delighted when I saw the bolts on it a couple of years back. I jumped on it after a quick warmup, without knowing it's name or rating. The photo calls this "Porkus Procurement," but that route actually starts just a foot or two from Porkfist. The dotted line on the photo is the slab I'm talking about, roughly 20' left of Porkfist-Porkus-Lumina. Start up a very sandy, vegetated low-angle slab to gain the first bolt. (If not for this run out and dirty start, I would have given this a 3 star rating.) Follow a line of bolts up an increasingly steep slab using the arete on the right at the start but moving back towards the center for the crux bulging headwall on slightly "Prickly" holds. I felt the bolt placements on this route were the most thoughtful of any Shelf route I've been on. Hats off to the bolter whoever it was (I was told maybe Van Horn?)!

ADMIN NOTE: This description was previously listed under the title "Stink Finger", but after examining the comments, the descriptions & climbing Stink Finger, it's apparent that the route described here is the route listed in the 2005 Sharp End Guidebook as "Punjabi". If anyone else has a different opinion, please add a comment! - Monomaniac, 6 Jun 2009

Protection

8-10 quickdraws plus anchors.

Photos

slim

  5.11d
slim    
  5.11d
I'm pretty sure this route is actually 'Stinkfinger' but that the last few guidebooks have switched 'Punjabi' and 'Stinkfinger'. 'Punjabi' was put up quite a bit before 'Stinkfinger' (see Van Horn 2nd ed.), and is the left of the 2 routes. In summary, the route IMMEDIATELY left of 'Porkus Procurement' is 'Stinkfinger' and is probably around 11c or 11d with a cruxy finish. About 20 feet left of that is 'Punjabi', which is just R of the ledge that houses Kinesthesia and I Scare Myself'. 'Punjabi' is significantly easier (11a or b). May 6, 2012
John Musso
Pueblo west co
John Musso   Pueblo west co
If the new Fred Knapp guide is correct, Stink Finger is two routes to the left of Porkus Procurement, not one. Climbing black to blonde rock. A partner and I climbed both Stink Finger and Punjabi on a recent trip to Dark Side (Punjabi is one route to the left of Porkus Pro) and found Punjabi to be much closer to 11d than 11b as the guidebook suggests. Both routes were very good climbing. Jun 6, 2006
Rick Thompson
Mount Nebbiolo, CO
Rick Thompson   Mount Nebbiolo, CO
Nice climbing, on classic Dark Side rock, most climbers give it two thumbs up! Mar 25, 2002
I did it on one of those "good days" when everything was feeling pretty good and I thought it in the 11c range give or take so I'd buy 11d. Yes, it is two routes left of Porfist, one route left of Porkus. Jan 22, 2002
If this is the climb that is two routes to the left of Enchanted Porkfist I am not sure of the name, but it has been called 11d by several people. I have climbed and the rating felt pretty close. Jan 22, 2002