Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Stanley & Striech
Page Views: 859 total · 6/month
Shared By: david goldstein on Sep 21, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


11 Opinions

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Description

A worthwhile change of pace. The rating is more accurate if you drop a number from the guidebook grade -- all three members of our party flashed this after two of us flailed on ?Lou Raven's Rest? (10c/d). The pitch starts in a desert tower like wide crack at the bottom of a very large, hanging right-facing corner. Up the crack, onto the right face of the corner for a couple of clips. Then, reach over to the left face of the corner, clipping bolts and stemming until the location of the bolts force you to commit to the left face entirely. The airy position here is invigorating, but the holds are pretty good. Continue up the left face to anchors at its top.

Maybe, if one committed to the left face as early as possible, it might feel like 5.11, but it would sure be contrived.

Location

On the far left/east of The Dark Side, one route left of From a Whisper to a Scream.

Protection

8 bolts.

Photos

Doug Lintz
Kearney, NE
 
Doug Lintz   Kearney, NE
 
The first 10 feet ascend very loose and crumbly rock. Be sure to test your foothold before weighting it completely. The upper dihedral is exposed and very fun. Sep 25, 2007
Kevin Detlor
BOZEMAN
Kevin Detlor   BOZEMAN
The 5.11 grade is most definitely wrong, flashed this one the other day, then went and took many whips on redlined (5.11b). Really fun route though, must do if a solid 5.10 climber. Sep 10, 2008
Christian Mason
Westminster CO
 
Christian Mason   Westminster CO
 
Agree with the comment above. This climb is a LOT of fun, but it's not anywhere near 11c. Sep 30, 2010