Type: Sport
FA: Mark Van Horn and Ed Schmitt
Page Views: 1,048 total · 5/month
Shared By: Old Fart aka Dave Bohn on Jan 20, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


25 Opinions

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Description

This may be a "chipped route" according to Knapp. I didn't notice it when I climbed it like I did "Fiddler on the Woof" in Clear Creek, but I've never been back to inspect the hold since Knapp claimed it chipped. Nonetheless, this is one of the best routes at Shelf of any rating. The ultimate grab bag of moves; bulges, pockets, roofs, underclings and thin cracks yields an incredibly sustained outing! See photo or book for starting information, but this one's not over till it's over ! Absolute must do !

Protection

10-12 clips plus anchors.

Photos

Joe Collins  
 
Hard to imagine you didn't notice the chipped hold at the start on this one. The perfect 4-finger mailslot is most certainly manufactured. There is another questionable two finger right after this, but I didn't need to use it... shorter people might have to. From the 2nd bolt onward, the climbing is sustained, tricky, and long... 3-stars. If you find long-5.11s with one move of V6 more troubling than route modification, you'll love this route. Jun 1, 2004
abc
  5.11c
abc  
  5.11c
FA -- Mark Van Horn and Ed Schmidt. Nov 4, 2007
Phil Lauffen
Innsbruck, AT
 
Phil Lauffen   Innsbruck, AT  
 
Really, really fun route. May 11, 2009
Monomaniac
Morrison, CO
Monomaniac   Morrison, CO  
Ben's Dad? If so, I think it's spelled Schmitt. Feb 27, 2010
Seth Hogan
Frisco, Co
 
Seth Hogan   Frisco, Co
 
Hell yeah to bringing this route to a sustained 11 rather than 1 move one 12+. Sick route. Jul 5, 2015
Adam Block
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.11c
Adam Block   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.11c
This climb is a great cross section of Shelf. It switches themes every ten feet or so and is one of my favorite 11s here. Has a reachy anchor though, beware. May 18, 2017