Type: Sport
FA: Bob D'Antonio
Page Views: 272 total · 1/month
Shared By: Jesse Ryan on Apr 26, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


9 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Climb the route to the right of Two Hearts off a large, detached flake and up a short bulging face. Tackle the height-dependent crux right after clipping the first bolt. This probably goes around 5.12c or so for someone tall enough to reach through to key pocket with their feet on the detached flake (perhaps 6'2+"). I feel the grade for anyone who must work their feet up first is 13a. After the crux move, I doubt the climb is harder than 5.12a/b or so, with fun moves on pockets that get progressively bigger as one gets closer to the anchors.

Essentially, this is a one move wonder, so despite interesting moves, good rock, and position, I only consider it worth one and a half stars.

Protection

4 bolts to 2 bolt chain anchor.

Photos

Peter Beal
Boulder Colorado
Peter Beal   Boulder Colorado
On the Shelf Road scale it's worth two, if for no other reason than that it's harder than 12b. Plus I think the boulder problem is actually pretty good. Apr 29, 2002
slim    
Ummm, you would literally have to be 9 feet tall to grab the pocket with your feet on the flake. I would think being short would be better in terms of not being so coiled up on the feet. Mar 15, 2016
A C
Your moms house
  5.12d
A C   Your moms house
  5.12d
I'm 6' and had a really hard time even getting to the first bolt without a stick clip. The climbing though is sharp and savage but lets up quite nicely after the haftway point. May 22, 2018