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Routes in The Dark Side
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27 Tons S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Acetylcholine S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Animatronic S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Asym S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Audition, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Beginner's Outing S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Black 'N Dicey S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Black Awareness S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Black Dihedral T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Blank Frank S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Bonnie S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Call From Overseas S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Captain Caveman S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Clyde S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Corner Pockets S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Counter Balance S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Crack Happens S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Crack's On Top, The S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Crown of Thorns aka Box Lunch aka Lou Raven's Rest S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Dark Side Roofs S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Eagle Has Landed, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Eat, Drink, and Beat Larry S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Edge Of Fright S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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El Guapo S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Enchanted Porkfist S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Everybody Was Here S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Face The Music S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Fat Like Butta S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Fight or Flight S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Fragile S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Go East, Old Man S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Gully Boys S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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I Scare Myself T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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Karen S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Kashmere S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Kinesthesia S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Levels of the Game S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Line of Strength S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R |
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Lumina S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Man in Black S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Mannequin S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Missing Hangers aka Hangers Regained S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Muted by Reality S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Papillion S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Plum, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Porkus Procurement S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Puddle Of Holes S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Punjabi S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Red Devil S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Redlined S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Rip It S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Route Fluffer S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Shelf Road Virgin S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Show Me Your Bolts S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Slap Me S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Stink Finger S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Stuck in the Middle With You S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Suspender Man S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Swinging Richards S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Teenage Wristband S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Thank Heaven for Little Girls S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Trolling For Holds S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Two Hearts S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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U Pump It S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Unknown S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Unknown But Worth Doing S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Viaggro S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Void Lloyd S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Warm Busch Beer T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Way We Were, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Welcoming, The S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Whisper To A Scream S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Sport, 60 ft (18 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 1,466 total · 6/month |
| Shared By: | Anonymous Coward on Sep 16, 2005 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
This is the route that climbs the prow left of Teenage Wristband, and right of the popular route formerly known as Box Lunch (now called [something] different in the Knapp guide).
This route is essentially a contrived one-move wonder, involving a height-dependent campus move off of a one-digit two finger pocket to a drilled (or enhanced) mono. This section, at the 3rd bolt, is easily bypassed by stemming into the corner to the right.
I was tempted to give this route the coveted BOMB rating, but the nice upper section redeems this route to one-star caliber. Bypassing the crux by stemming into the corner yields a nice 11+ climb.
The new Knapp guidebook gives this the dubious rating of 12c and awards it 4-stars. My guess is that Fred has not done the route, judging by his quality and difficulty assessment. Van Horn rates it 5.12c/13b due to its height-dependent nature, which is closer to reality. Personally I think it's minimally a V5/6 crux, even with a long wingspan.
This route is essentially a contrived one-move wonder, involving a height-dependent campus move off of a one-digit two finger pocket to a drilled (or enhanced) mono. This section, at the 3rd bolt, is easily bypassed by stemming into the corner to the right.
I was tempted to give this route the coveted BOMB rating, but the nice upper section redeems this route to one-star caliber. Bypassing the crux by stemming into the corner yields a nice 11+ climb.
The new Knapp guidebook gives this the dubious rating of 12c and awards it 4-stars. My guess is that Fred has not done the route, judging by his quality and difficulty assessment. Van Horn rates it 5.12c/13b due to its height-dependent nature, which is closer to reality. Personally I think it's minimally a V5/6 crux, even with a long wingspan.
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