Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 765 total · 5/month
Shared By: Anonymous Coward on Sep 16, 2005
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


7 Opinions

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Description

This is the route that climbs the prow left of Teenage Wristband, and right of the popular route formerly known as Box Lunch (now called [something] different in the Knapp guide).

This route is essentially a contrived one-move wonder, involving a height-dependent campus move off of a one-digit two finger pocket to a drilled (or enhanced) mono. This section, at the 3rd bolt, is easily bypassed by stemming into the corner to the right.

I was tempted to give this route the coveted BOMB rating, but the nice upper section redeems this route to one-star caliber. Bypassing the crux by stemming into the corner yields a nice 11+ climb.

The new Knapp guidebook gives this the dubious rating of 12c and awards it 4-stars. My guess is that Fred has not done the route, judging by his quality and difficulty assessment. Van Horn rates it 5.12c/13b due to its height-dependent nature, which is closer to reality. Personally I think it's minimally a V5/6 crux, even with a long wingspan.

Protection

7 or 8 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.

Photos

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Train4life
Boulder, CO
  5.13-
Train4life   Boulder, CO
  5.13-
First, the route really is a bomb...but does it have to be? No! I think that this route could be fantastic...let me explain and see what everyone who reads this thinks. If the route is already drilled and has a tweaky and silly campus/height-dependent/thruchy move, then why don't we drill one more hole? If we drilled a two finger pocket on the left that is a bit deep and nice, then we can hit that left hand from the right hand mono to the two finger pocket on the left and go to the drilled mono with the right middle finger and then do a cool cross in right hand to the small crimp and a bust out bump move to the huge pocket! DRILL another TWO FINGER ON THE LEFT, and this rig gets bumped up to a 2 star route automatically, I believe! :) Sep 29, 2014