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Routes in The Dark Side

27 Tons S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Acetylcholine S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Animatronic S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Asym S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Audition, The S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Beginner's Outing S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Black 'N Dicey S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Black Awareness S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Black Dihedral T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Blank Frank S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Bonnie S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Call From Overseas S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Clyde S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Corner Pockets S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Counter Balance S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Crack Happens S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Crack's On Top, The S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Crown of Thorns aka Box Lunch aka Lou Raven's Rest S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Dark Side Roofs S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Eagle has Landed, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Eat, Drink, and Beat Larry S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Edge Of Fright S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
El Guapo S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Enchanted Porkfist S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Face The Music S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Fat Like Butta S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Fight or Flight S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Fragile S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Go East, Old Man S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
I Scare Myself T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Kashmere S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Kinesthesia S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Levels of the Game S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Line of Strength S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R
Lumina S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Man in Black S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Mannequin S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Missing Hangers aka Hangers Regained S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Muted by Reality S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Plum, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Porkus Procurement S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Puddle Of Holes S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Punjabi S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Red Devil S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Redlined S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Rip It S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Route Fluffer S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Shelf Road Virgin S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Stink Finger S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Stuck in the Middle With You S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Suspender Man S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Swinging Richards S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Teenage Wristband S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Thank Heaven for Little Girls S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Trolling For Holds S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Two Hearts S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
U Pump It S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Unknown S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Unknown But Worth Doing S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Viaggro S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Void Lloyd S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Warm Busch Beer T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Way We Were, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Welcoming, The S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Whisper To A Scream S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport
FA: Brian Mullin
Page Views: 939 total, 5/month
Shared By: montay on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This is a better route than Enchanted Porkfist (IMHO) and no where near as much traffic. That being said, I must also say that Enchanted Porkfist is a superb route as well.

To find this route, hike into the Dark Side Canyon, and make your way to the Question of Balance Pinnacle. Just to the right of the Pinnacle lies a pair of routes on beautiful, black rock. The left route of these is TCOT.

Gingerly creep your way up the face on thin technical holds. It is fairly sustained. At the top, you will run into a crack that is a bit awkward. You might find this kind of hairy if you don't bring a small cam or two. The last 15 feet (for me anyway) was a bit harder than it looked. Have fun!!

Protection

[7] bolts and anchors. You might want to bring a small cam or two (#0.5 Camalot or so) for the final crack to the anchors.

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Julia
  5.11b/c
Julia  
  5.11b/c
This is a really great climb. The top crux has a very tricky crimp with poor feet to an amazing move on a pocket. Mar 29, 2015
Jordan Hirro
Colorado Springs/Carbondale
 
Jordan Hirro   Colorado Springs/Carbondale
 
There are now 7 bolts on this climb. A bolt was added at the bottom. However, one still might want a small cam if a bit of runout makes you uneasy at the top. Aug 18, 2014
Brent Apgar
Out of the Loop
 
Brent Apgar   Out of the Loop
 
This route packs a lot of variety for a slab. Maybe not more fun than Porkfist but certainly more engaging. Aug 10, 2014
Mr. Stevens
Boulder, CO
Mr. Stevens   Boulder, CO
Have a 0.5 purple Camalot or a yellow Alien/yellow Metolius for the top. Sep 18, 2013
slim

  5.11a/b
slim    
  5.11a/b
Good climbing but poorly bolted. Jun 3, 2013