Type: Sport
FA: Brian Mullin
Page Views: 999 total · 5/month
Shared By: montay on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


26 Opinions

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Description

This is a better route than Enchanted Porkfist (IMHO) and no where near as much traffic. That being said, I must also say that Enchanted Porkfist is a superb route as well.

To find this route, hike into the Dark Side Canyon, and make your way to the Question of Balance Pinnacle. Just to the right of the Pinnacle lies a pair of routes on beautiful, black rock. The left route of these is TCOT.

Gingerly creep your way up the face on thin technical holds. It is fairly sustained. At the top, you will run into a crack that is a bit awkward. You might find this kind of hairy if you don't bring a small cam or two. The last 15 feet (for me anyway) was a bit harder than it looked. Have fun!!

Protection

[7] bolts and anchors. You might want to bring a small cam or two (#0.5 Camalot or so) for the final crack to the anchors.

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slim

  5.11a/b
slim    
  5.11a/b
Good climbing but poorly bolted. Jun 3, 2013
Mr. Stevens
Boulder, CO
Mr. Stevens   Boulder, CO
Have a 0.5 purple Camalot or a yellow Alien/yellow Metolius for the top. Sep 18, 2013
Brent Apgar
Out of the Loop
 
Brent Apgar   Out of the Loop
 
This route packs a lot of variety for a slab. Maybe not more fun than Porkfist but certainly more engaging. Aug 10, 2014
Jordan Hirro
Colorado Springs/Carbondale
 
Jordan Hirro   Colorado Springs/Carbondale
 
There are now 7 bolts on this climb. A bolt was added at the bottom. However, one still might want a small cam if a bit of runout makes you uneasy at the top. Aug 18, 2014
Julia
  5.11b/c
Julia  
  5.11b/c
This is a really great climb. The top crux has a very tricky crimp with poor feet to an amazing move on a pocket. Mar 29, 2015