Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Kevin McLaughlin, Glen Schuler, 1989
Page Views: 248 total · 8/month
Shared By: Stefan Griebel on Apr 26, 2016
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


4 Opinions

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Description

The bottom 3/4s of this route is 3-stars great. It is very similar to its neighbors to the left and has probably 5.10+ ish climbing.

The top is a 1-move wonder. Once at the roof encounter, the bolt is easy to clip. There are some sharp holds, and a sharp sidepull flake is available to slice up your fingers. Figure out how to use these, get your feet up, and the climb is over.

Location

As of April 2016:

This is the 2nd route left of the Bonnie & Clyde 3-bolt shorties.

It is the 2nd route right of the Fight or Flight, 5.9+, with the Ushba titanium glue-ins.

Protection

Draws.

Photos

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Doug Lintz
Kearney, NE
Doug Lintz   Kearney, NE
Prepare yourself for some sharp crimping/high stepping at the crux. I tried this years ago and got thoroughly shut down. Not wanting to leave a biner, I traversed left to the 5.10 route, topped that out, and moved back to this route to set a toprope. Leaving a biner would've been the smarter option. Apr 26, 2016