Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Bob D'Antonio, Kelly Baldwin and Brad Short
Page Views: 690 total · 4/month
Shared By: Ron Olsen on Apr 17, 2004
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


30 Opinions

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Description

Just left of Teenage Wristband is a wide crack. Climb the crack and gain a ledge near a pine tree. Fire up the steep face making several hard moves to gain a short left-facing corner. Climb up the corner to a two bolt anchor on the left. Watch out for loose rock on the ledge by the anchor.

Protection

Eight bolts to a two-bolt anchor.

Photos

slim

  5.10a/b
slim    
  5.10a/b
Climbed this route yesterday. Pretty fun route, minus the last stretch to the anchors. We agreed that it was similar to a waitress bringing you a nice beer and then pouring mustard into it. The 11a/b seemed way off, comparing it to Enchanted Porkfist, Crack's On Top, Muted By Reality, I Scare Myself, Rip It, Clyde, etc. We felt it was more similar in difficulty to Puddle of Holes (10a) (and we didn't cheat out to the right to the crack either). At the crux clip, if the crimp breaks, you're gonna have broken legs. If the chopper flake on the way to the anchor blows, you're dead. Overall, we enjoyed the route though. Apr 13, 2006
Deaun Schovajsa
  5.10d
Deaun Schovajsa  
  5.10d
Climbed this yesterday. Dirty, unaesthetic and loose blocks all around the anchor. Many better routes to do on the Darkside. May 20, 2008
Brent Apgar
Out of the Loop
 
Brent Apgar   Out of the Loop
 
Agree that the top has some junky rock. It seemed contrived NOT to head right into the obvious flake system, there's great holds that take you directly into it.
Surprisingly the rock through the mini-overlap before the final dihedral is quite solid. Aug 19, 2012
Rick Vermeil
Erie, CO
  5.10c
Rick Vermeil   Erie, CO
  5.10c
This climb must of cleaned up quite a bit as I did not feel at all like Slim did about eight years ago. I thought it was a worthwhile route overall. It started with a crack to a high first bolt (about 5.8 climbing or so to the bolt), and it continues up the crack to a big ledge. It gets harder as you climb above the ledge on the face. I felt the climbing worked up in difficulty as you hit the crux (10d) at about 25 feet off of the ledge. This face was thin and definitely a bit contrived with the crack off to your right. You could climb that and bypass the crux which probably would make this climb a bit easier. Probably 10a after the crux to the anchors. Sep 29, 2014