Elevation: 6,876 ft
GPS: 39.933, -105.289 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 41,087 total · 235/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Mar 20, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC
Access Issue: COVID-19 Notice & Seasonal Closures Details

Description

This is the top most section of the West Ridge. It arbitrarily extends to Xanadu since it is a well-known, easily-identified route. This section is the most breezy, most airy, highest in altitude, and longest to reach. Count on at least a 30 minutes approach. However, on a spring or fall day or in the mornings on a summer day, this stretch of stone is hard to beat for setting close to the Denver Metropolitan area. If there were a place to camp in Eldorado Canyon, this might be the place. It's worth the walk.

Some may call this section of the ridge, the North Buttress. It does seem somewhat distinct from the rest of the West Ridge. Descents off the top can be done generally going left to the gully between The West Ridge & Rincon.

Note, there is still loose rock in sections here. Consider a helmet. Don't forget good judgment. If you come play here, you may be smiling for days.

There are many fine routes in this section of the West Ridge. Routes here vary from 1 to 3 pitches in length. These include: the fun Knight's Move, 5.7; the devious Purple Haze, 5.9; the varied Chockstone, 5.10a - don't short-change yourself with only 1 pitch; Laughing at the Moon, 5.10b; the exquisite Prince of Darkness, 5.11a; the technical Jericho, 5.11c; Wild Turkey, 5.11c/d s; the impressive Ministry of Fear, 5.11d vs; among others.

This is a traditionally-protected area so bring your rack if you visit this section.

For you history buffs, there is an interesting story about how the bold, Alec Sharp spent a sleepless night prior to firing off his intimidating Ministry of Fear in the old publication Bolder Boulder. Many of us ordinary folks with real jobs might spend a sleepless night before putting up a 5.9 s or 5.10 s route.

Again, it's worth the walk.

Getting There

Approach is dependent upon the depth of the creek, the section of wall you wish to climb, the parking available, and your desires for the day. You can approach the top of the ridge by parking at the W end of the park, hiking up the Eldorado Canyon Trail, take the turn off for the Rincon access, then boulder hop the talus, and cross to the Rincon. Then angle down a short way to the top of the ridge. You can approach the lower part of the ridge by parking at the Milton Boulder, wade the stream or boulder hop (Aug-ish to May-ish) to the base of the ridge and ascend. Finally, you can approach the lower part of the ridge by parking at the E end of the park, cross the bridge, hike on the trail paralleling the creek, and traverse the slippery 3rd class ramp around to the base of the West Ridge. Note, this last traverse is intimidating for small kids and particularly green partners. Then, you hike along the trail at the base of the W face of the West Ridge to your desired route.

34 Total Climbs

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Location: West Ridge - part E - top to Xanadu Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at West Ridge - part E - top to Xanadu

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
 58
Bushwhack Crack
Trad 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 182
Purple Haze
Trad 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 42
Sirens of Titan
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
 44
The Bat
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 105
Friends in High Places
Trad 2 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
 36
Born Under Punches
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 25
Fading Light
Trad 2 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 276
Chockstone
Trad 3 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 79
Laughing at the Moon
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 20
Whiplash
Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
 4
Between the Cracks
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 115
Muscular Dystrophy
Trad 2 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 111
Prince of Darkness
Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 27
Superstone
Trad
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 10
Cornerstone
TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Bushwhack Crack
 58
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 Trad 2 pitches
Purple Haze
 182
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 2 pitches
Sirens of Titan
 42
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
The Bat
 44
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 Trad
Friends in High Places
 105
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 2 pitches
Born Under Punches
 36
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 Trad
Fading Light
 25
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 2 pitches
Chockstone
 276
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 3 pitches
Laughing at the Moon
 79
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Whiplash
 20
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Between the Cracks
 4
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 Trad
Muscular Dystrophy
 115
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad 2 pitches
Prince of Darkness
 111
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Superstone
 27
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad
Cornerstone
 10
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a TR
More Classic Climbs in West Ridge - part E - top to Xanadu »

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