Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Chris Weidner, May 1, 2014
Page Views: 638 total · 11/month
Shared By: Chris Weidner on May 1, 2014
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Description

Climb 20 feet up a wide crack on the left side of a pillar to a rocky ledge. Place several small to medium cams as high as possible in the right-leaning corner. This is the only gear until it’s well below your feet. I placed a crashpad on the ledge for peace of mind (I’d recently witnessed a compound tib/fib fracture at Movement) though its benefits were questionable.

Crank a steep, powerful boulder problem on great rock to a break with good gear. Continue more easily up the leaning crack and seam to a dead tree below a roof. Traverse right beneath the roof on red, broken rock joining the final 15 feet of Jeep to a two-bolt anchor.

  • I rehearsed this well on toprope before leading it.
The EASIEST way to set up a TR is to climb Halo (5.9 R), ten feet right of Modern Defense, and make an anchor from #1 and #2 Camalots in the roof above the dead tree. However, Halo is a dangerous lead with plentiful lichen and some loose rock. I cleaned it up some, but don't underestimate its challenge.

The SAFEST way to set up a TR is to climb to the two-bolt anchor above Friends in High Places. Use double-length slings off the bolts, and lower carefully rightward to the same roof anchor above Halo. There is a pin and a solid cam halfway to the roof while lowering to minimize the risk of a big swing.

Location

Modern Defense is ten feet right of Ministry of Fear and ten feet left of Halo on the upper West Ridge.

Protection

1 each: #00 Metolius-#2 Camalot (including a #0/1 Offset Metolius for the initial corner); RPs.
2 each: #0.5 Camalot.
Several long slings.

Photos

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