All Locations > Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > W Ridge > W Ridge - part E - to…

Modern Defense

Name: Modern Defense
Rating: 2.0

5.12b YDS 7b French 26 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 26 ZA E5 6b British X

Routes in West Ridge - part E - top to Xanadu

L › R R › L A › Z

	A Cut Above T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Android Tilt T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	As We Liked It T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
	Bat, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
	Between the Cracks T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
	Blackout T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Born Under Punches T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
	Bushwhack Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
	Chock Suey T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Chockstone T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Cornerstone TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Fade To Black T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
	Fading Light T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Friends in High Places T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Ice Nine T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Jeep T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
	Jericho T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
	Joke Crack to Superstone T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c R
	Knight's Move T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Laughing at the Moon T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Ministry of Fear T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a X
	Modern Defense T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b X
	Muscular Dystrophy T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Prince of Darkness T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Purple Haze T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Red House T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
	S&M T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Sirens of Titan T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Speakeasy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
	Superstone T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Sylvia's Bush T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Tales of Ulysses T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Tilt Right T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
	Whiplash T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

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Type:	Trad, 70 ft (21 m)
GPS:	39.93325, -105.28897
FA:	Chris Weidner, May 1, 2014
Page Views:	1,412 total · 10/month
Shared By:	Chris Weidner on May 1, 2014
Admins:	Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC Page Updates (admin only)

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Explore this route in 3D

Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures - lifted Details

Update: as of 6/7/23 per Mike McHugh, ECSP: all closures have been lifted within Eldorado Canyon State Park, including Continental Crag.

Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.

Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.

These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.

Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.

See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.

Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:

Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…

For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…

Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!

Description

Climb 20 feet up a wide crack on the left side of a pillar to a rocky ledge. Place several small to medium cams as high as possible in the right-leaning corner. This is the only gear until it’s well below your feet. I placed a crashpad on the ledge for peace of mind (I’d recently witnessed a compound tib/fib fracture at Movement) though its benefits were questionable.

Crank a steep, powerful boulder problem on great rock to a break with good gear. Continue more easily up the leaning crack and seam to a dead tree below a roof. Traverse right beneath the roof on red, broken rock joining the final 15 feet of Jeep to a two-bolt anchor.

I rehearsed this well on toprope before leading it.

The EASIEST way to set up a TR is to climb Halo (5.9 R), ten feet right of Modern Defense, and make an anchor from #1 and #2 Camalots in the roof above the dead tree. However, Halo is a dangerous lead with plentiful lichen and some loose rock. I cleaned it up some, but don't underestimate its challenge.

The SAFEST way to set up a TR is to climb to the two-bolt anchor above Friends in High Places. Use double-length slings off the bolts, and lower carefully rightward to the same roof anchor above Halo. There is a pin and a solid cam halfway to the roof while lowering to minimize the risk of a big swing.