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Routes in West Ridge - part E - top to Xanadu

A Cut Above T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Android Tilt T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
As We Liked It T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Bat, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Between the Cracks T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Blackout T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Born Under Punches T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Bushwack Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Chock Suey T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Chockstone T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cornerstone TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Fade To Black T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Fading Light T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Friends in High Places T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ice Nine T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Jeep T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Jericho T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Joke Crack to Superstone T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Knight's Move T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Laughing at the Moon T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ministry of Fear T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a X
Modern Defense T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b X
Muscular Dystrophy T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Prince of Darkness T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Purple Haze T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Red House T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
S&M T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sirens of Titan T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Speakeasy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Superstone T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Sylvia's Bush T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tales of Ulysses T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tilt Right T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Whiplash T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Joyce and Richard Rossiter, 1986
Page Views: 1,331 total, 7/month
Shared By: Ivan Rezucha on Jan 18, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


26 Opinions

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Seasonal Closures Details

Description

Lots of climbing when combined with the first half of Chockstone. A good hard 11 for the solid 10 climber, since the 11 crux is at a good bolt, and therefore very safe and easy to aid if necessary.

Do the first half of Chockstone (10a), step right at the tree rap anchor. Clip a bolt in the dihedral above and do the crux moves to enter the dihedral and reach a good jam. You might want to clip the bolt with a single locking biner since there is a chance you can hit the ledge falling off the crux. I was unable to do the crux moves, but came close a few times. So for me it was 10+ A0. Step left out of the corner and up on 9 and easy 10 moves past some OK but not great gear. Wires and a funky blue Camalot in a flare. An offset cam might work great here. When it starts to get hard (10c crux), place some gear in the corner to your right. I escaped right here, as suggested by Rossiter, to a left facing corner, then up and back left. The direct 10c crux looks exciting.

Belay at the same tree as for the upper part of the Chockstone. There are no fixed rap anchors here as of 1/19/03. To get off, downclimb with a belay about 20 feet right to the Purple Haze anchors.

Protection

Brass nuts (HB offsets or HPs) plus standard rack up to blue #3 Camalot, a large offset cam of blue camalot size would be perfect for up high. Single set of small cams.

Photos

Ivan Rezucha
Fort Collins, CO
 
Ivan Rezucha   Fort Collins, CO
 
The Levin guide says to step out left after the crux and up the flared "fist crack". Then back right, but how far right? The climb is confusing in that you can climb left, straight up, or right. Straight up is definitely not cheating (and that's why I haven't done it that way), but left or right feels like cheating. Nov 7, 2010
I really enjoy this climb and just wanted to add a little beta. The description recommends a #3 Camalot, but a #1 Camalot works just as well a few inches higher. Above that, you can place many good small nuts and RPs.
I guess escaping out right after the first crux is easier, but why would you want to? The dihedral above is beautiful and culminates in a hard move, felt closer to 11c to me. There is currently a fixed stopper protecting this move.
-Scott Mar 3, 2009
There is a trick to clipping the bolt that makes it pretty easy. Just climb a little way up the 2nd pitch of Chockstone and from a good jug reach around the corner to the bolt. Great way to add a little extra climbing to Chockstone even if it is a bit contrived. Oct 16, 2005
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.11b
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.11b
Superstone's first clip is tough even at 5'10". I had a 'perfect' nut below that, however (small Super Rock. A #4 or #5 BD stopper might also be quite good). This placement, however good might not keep you from an ankle twister on the ledge, but it will keep you from [tumbling] past it and breaking your neck. This section is technical and fun and there are a variable number of hard moves depending upon your height.

After the bolt the climbing is easier but not easy. Escaping right and coming back left is the most obvious way, but the topo (yes, contrived) shows popping out left to be the way. There are surprising and surprisingly good holds there. So it is contrived, but more fun than going up the line of least resistance.

Let's say you haven't had enough and are disappointed by the one move wonder- OK, so go straight up. I ended up in a balancy and powerful layback off of the left edge of the system in a near-splits with my right toe hooked more than 6 feet out to the right side. One move wonder? Not hardly..double-check those RPs you just set below you and make sure they'll hold!

With enough slings, small gear, and judgment, one can run P1 of Chockstone into Superstone into P3 OF chockstone, finishing on Chock Suey, for a single 60+ meter pitch (70m rope recommended but not certainly necessary). This goes 10a, 11b, 9+, 10c for a nice combo-pitch. We ran the last 3 together before realizing that 4 was possible. Dec 8, 2003
Joe Collins
  5.11a
Joe Collins  
  5.11a
Looking at the comments here, I think I did the route 'wrong'. After pulling the crux you get a great jug slightly up and right of the hand jam. The path of least resistance from here is to climb up and right into the left facing dihedral. Probably easy 5.9. It seemed fairly contrived to force the line out left, staying in the right facing dihedral, or even going out farther left to the flare. Definitely a one-move wonder, and pretty easy for the grade.

Cool climbing throught the crux. Then lower quality climbing up right. It seems very contrived to stay on the line which is described in the guidebook or on the webpage.

One move wonder. Maybe a bit height dependent. Sep 22, 2003
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
 
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
 
Yeah, from about 7-8 years ago, I recall clipping the bolt for a friend of mine, 5'6", with a locking biner. Then he proceeded to work the route, falling upon and pulling some RPs just above until he got it. No offense Bob, it might be a few move wonder, as I recall, but memory blurs as I grow older. Jul 5, 2003
Clipping the bolt may be the crux for people under a certain height (low 5'?) Staying left (but not too far left) after the crux offers an intriguing puzzle -- a 4' long flared fist crack w/ very little else.

Short but sweet. Jul 4, 2003