Type: Trad, 100 ft (30 m)
FA: Joyce and Richard Rossiter, 1986
Page Views: 1,928 total · 9/month
Shared By: Ivan Rezucha on Jan 18, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route

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Lots of climbing when combined with the first half of Chockstone. A good hard 11 for the solid 10 climber, since the 11 crux is at a good bolt, and therefore very safe and easy to aid if necessary.

Do the first half of Chockstone (10a), step right at the tree rap anchor. Clip a bolt in the dihedral above and do the crux moves to enter the dihedral and reach a good jam. You might want to clip the bolt with a single locking biner since there is a chance you can hit the ledge falling off the crux. I was unable to do the crux moves, but came close a few times. So for me it was 10+ A0. Step left out of the corner and up on 9 and easy 10 moves past some OK but not great gear. Wires and a funky blue Camalot in a flare. An offset cam might work great here. When it starts to get hard (10c crux), place some gear in the corner to your right. I escaped right here, as suggested by Rossiter, to a left facing corner, then up and back left. The direct 10c crux looks exciting.

Belay at the same tree as for the upper part of the Chockstone. There are no fixed rap anchors here as of 1/19/03. To get off, downclimb with a belay about 20 feet right to the Purple Haze anchors.


Brass nuts (HB offsets or HPs) plus standard rack up to blue #3 Camalot, a large offset cam of blue camalot size would be perfect for up high. Single set of small cams.