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Routes in West Ridge - part E - top to Xanadu

A Cut Above T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Android Tilt T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
As We Liked It T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Bat, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Between the Cracks T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Blackout T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Born Under Punches T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Bushwack Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Chock Suey T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Chockstone T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cornerstone TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Fade To Black T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Fading Light T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Friends in High Places T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ice Nine T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Jeep T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Jericho T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Joke Crack to Superstone T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Knight's Move T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Laughing at the Moon T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ministry of Fear T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a X
Modern Defense T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b X
Muscular Dystrophy T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Prince of Darkness T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Purple Haze T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Red House T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
S&M T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sirens of Titan T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Speakeasy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Superstone T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Sylvia's Bush T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tales of Ulysses T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tilt Right T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Whiplash T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad Fixed Hardware (4)
FA: Chris Archer, Stephan DeWet, Cris Ann Crylsdale, 1988.
Page Views: 4,231 total, 21/month
Shared By: Michael Komarnitsky on Sep 25, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Seasonal Closures Details

Description

This is one of the last routes up the West Ridge. It's actually a separate rock, just west of where the West Ridge descent trail kicks you out. The black, shaded north face is split by this line. A wide slot runs up and left, while a diagonal hand crack runs up and right. In between these, four bolts continue straight up the thin face, through 2 distinct huecos. A nice line, and a good one to seek out when the rest of the rock is baking hot.

Protection

4 draws, ~#3 Camalot, and something smaller for up top.
Ryan Kempf
Boulder, CO
 
Ryan Kempf   Boulder, CO
 
Led this route today in the shade, absolutely no chalk on the route whatsoever. After shopping for holds, hanging the draws and figuring out the beta mid-route, I think 11a is still an accurate grade (although very style-dependent). A 0.5 or 0.75 before the 1st bolt and a #1 C4 after the 4th bolts is nice. Fantastic route. Mar 6, 2016
Vincent K
Boulder, CO
Vincent K   Boulder, CO
I agree that a #1 red Camalot is what you want for the horizontal crack towards the top. Nov 1, 2015
It's been a little while since I was climbing in Eldo, but I do remember Prince of Darkness being a tougher onsight than Super Slab. PoD definitely has a tech-y element to it that wasn't quite as present on SS. Nov 16, 2011
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.11-
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.11-
Phil,
I think 11 is right on, and there are some thin holds. If you did it on a hot day in full sun, then I imagine it was low percentage. There are also some side-to side movements in the route here and there.
Some routes just are not for some people because it specializes in a particular move (weakness), so don't fret it. A step up from Prince of Darkness, but in the same genre, is Le Boomerang. At a slightly lower level but slightly more 'exciting' is Mrs. Clean Gets Down. You have a shot at those still, OS.
So maybe work POD, and then when you get it, go get the other two right a way to wear in that recently gained experience and put it to use. Nov 10, 2011
I think it's a hard route, Phil. I remember for me, at 5'6", I had to really fight hard. Also to remember: 11a in Eldo is a stout grade, sometimes with like a V4 crux! Nov 9, 2011
slim

  5.10d
slim    
  5.10d
I think you are also a bit shorter, maybe 5'9" or so? Probably just didn't get set up for it the best way or some minor thing like that. Having seen you grapple some horrific plastic, I'm thinking you're probably not a punter. Maybe go huck another lap on it and see if it feels easier. Nov 9, 2011
Phil Lauffen
The Bubble
5.11
Phil Lauffen   The Bubble
5.11
I guess it's time for me to accept that gym ability has nothing to do with the ability to climb slab on slippery Eldo rock... and that I'm a punter. Nov 8, 2011
Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
5.10+
Darren Mabe   Flagstaff, AZ
5.10+
Ditto, Slim. Nov 8, 2011
slim

  5.10d
slim    
  5.10d
Onsight, but I am pretty tall and was pretty dialed at slab climbing when I did it. I seem to remember some sort of 'stand up' move with an overhead thumbdercling or something like that. One thing that also helped (for me) was that for Eldo, the protection was excellent (good bolt right there), so I didn't have to worry about falling. Nov 8, 2011
Phil Lauffen
The Bubble
5.11
Phil Lauffen   The Bubble
5.11
Felt harder than 11a to me. Everyone on here calling it 11a onsite it?! Or did you do it with beta? Nov 7, 2011
Ryan Brough
Arvada, Colorado
  5.11a
Ryan Brough   Arvada, Colorado
  5.11a
Great bolt placements! May 7, 2009
Ryan Rickard
  5.10d
Ryan Rickard  
  5.10d
Balancy moves on sharp crimps, good fun! I'm not sure about any broken holds, this was my first time as well, but felt it was 10d or so. I'm 5.10 with monkey arms, so it does seem to be height dependent. Mar 9, 2009
Kat A
Bart and Lisa Ville, CO
 
Kat A   Bart and Lisa Ville, CO
 
Great line. Not sure about any broken holds as it was my first time on it, but it felt 5.11a-ish to me (I'm 5'4"). Oct 19, 2008
climberz
5.11b
climberz  
5.11b
The crux hold is broken. The climb is a bit harder now. Don't know how much harder (I could not do it), maybe 11c-11d? Too bad, the old hold was one of the best crimpers in memory. Sep 21, 2008
Kevin Neilson
Boulder
  5.11a
Kevin Neilson   Boulder
  5.11a
I like this route because I can go to Eldo and still be a "sport wanker", as my friends like to denigrate me. I struggled earlier this year on my onsight attempt but had no issues today; the crimps are small, but solid, and the slight slabbiness allows for some resting. On my first attempt I tried to stay directly on the bolt line at the top, as Kirk suggests, but today I reached right to the crack. I suspect this is how most people do it since most people say the crux is getting to the bottom hueco, and avoiding the crack at the top seems like much thinner moves. I used three pieces besides the anchor: a 3.5 Camalot for the bottom, a gold Camalot right above it, and a red Camalot above the last bolt. Nov 6, 2005
SirVato
Boulder
 
SirVato   Boulder
 
Awesome pitch!!! Sharp positve edges to cling to but, so small!! For me the crux was the move to the hueco, my friend just jumped for it, I had to use some fancy footwork!! Apr 21, 2004
Chris Archer
  5.11a
Chris Archer  
  5.11a
I'm glad people are enjoying the route. The grade is certainly height dependent. I did the route again recently and still think 11a is a fair grade for average height climbers, if you're 6 feet or taller it's probably 5.10 something, if 5'6" or shorter 5.11 something. It's also chalk dependent. The last time I had done this route was about 5 years earlier in the sun on a hot day with Jim Erickson who led it sans chalk: 12c. Bolts were replaced in October 2003. Nov 12, 2003
Jim Amidon
  5.11a
Jim Amidon  
  5.11a
Real nice route, good pro, good rock, great finish.....short but sweet.... Oct 12, 2003
I did this today again. At the top, (just below the crack with the tree in it) you'll be tempted to go right a bit and get a jug, but you CAN go straight up the face to the horizontal. It's very crimpy (like more so even than down below), but fun and next time I lead it, I'll try it this way since the bolt is right there...ahhh the "next times" :) Sep 21, 2003
It should be pointed out that this climb is quite height dependent -- easier if taller. Do the direct start for extra value. Beautiful rock. Sharp, tweaky moves. Too short and straightforward to be a three star. Jul 4, 2003
Brian Milhaupt
Golden, CO
 
Brian Milhaupt   Golden, CO
 
The something else for the top is a #1 Camalot. Red Cam! Red Cam! Apr 30, 2003
adam brink
Boulder, CO
adam brink   Boulder, CO
Beautiful slab climbing! This is an underappreciated Eldo classic. Oct 23, 2002
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
 
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
 
This is a great line! Superb climbing. It gives you just enough to keep moving up. Thanks, Chris. Mar 7, 2002