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Routes in West Ridge - part E - top to Xanadu

A Cut Above T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Android Tilt T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
As We Liked It T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Bat, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Between the Cracks T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Blackout T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Born Under Punches T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Bushwack Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Chock Suey T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Chockstone T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cornerstone TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Fade To Black T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Fading Light T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Friends in High Places T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ice Nine T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Jeep T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Jericho T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Joke Crack to Superstone T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Knight's Move T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Laughing at the Moon T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ministry of Fear T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a X
Modern Defense T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b X
Muscular Dystrophy T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Prince of Darkness T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Purple Haze T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Red House T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
S&M T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sirens of Titan T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Speakeasy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Superstone T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Sylvia's Bush T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tales of Ulysses T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tilt Right T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Whiplash T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
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Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Andy Donson and Steve Levin
Page Views: 183 total · 1/month
Shared By: Andy Donson on Jan 11, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Description

This is the obvious, hanging dihedral between Superstone and Friends in High Places. It has great position and quality rock. Climb the easy lower section of Friends in High Places to the break and traverse left beneath roof to a ledge by a tree. Swing up and right into the right-facing dihedral on the right. Climb this past an excellent undercling and good but small gear to reach a belay at another tree.

To descend, climb down to the belay at the top of Friends.

Protection

Blue and green Alien, small wires, RPs.

Photos

slevin  
A classic Hendrix tune (like its neighbor Purple Haze), the name reflects the cluelessness of the new owners of the residence west of the Visitor Center, who tastefully painted their house fire-engine red. Jan 15, 2003
And here I was thinking that that color could only be described as "Electric Watermelon." Feb 9, 2003
Scott Bennett
  5.11b
Scott Bennett  
  5.11b
Really good route, another fine short pitch in a great cragging area. We felt like we were on an FA on this one, due to the plentiful lichen and loose crumblies. It's a lot cleaner now, though, and deserves to see a lot more traffic.

We did not think that it deserves an "R" rating, though, the pro is actually quite solid. The only potentially sketchy spot would be at the start, pulling into the corner from the ledge. Both my partner and I are fairly tall, and we were able to stretch up and place a bomber tcu in a nice solid little slot in the dihedral. A shorter climber might need to pull the first move (~10ish) before getting that peice. It still wouldn't be bad, though, since there are a few other pieces lower, but they might be in slightly sketchy rock.

Either way, this is not a dangerous route and has some pretty fun climbing on it.

-Scott Mar 18, 2009
Time to rename the route?

Nov 17, 2016

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