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Routes in West Ridge - part E - top to Xanadu

A Cut Above T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Android Tilt T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
As We Liked It T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Bat, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Between the Cracks T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Blackout T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Born Under Punches T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Bushwack Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Chock Suey T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Chockstone T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cornerstone TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Fade To Black T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Fading Light T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Friends in High Places T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ice Nine T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Jeep T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Jericho T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Joke Crack to Superstone T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Knight's Move T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Laughing at the Moon T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ministry of Fear T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a X
Modern Defense T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b X
Muscular Dystrophy T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Prince of Darkness T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Purple Haze T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Red House T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
S&M T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sirens of Titan T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Speakeasy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Superstone T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Sylvia's Bush T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tales of Ulysses T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tilt Right T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Whiplash T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
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Type: Trad Fixed Hardware (6)
FA: Richard and Joyce Rossiter
Page Views: 3,580 total · 17/month
Shared By: Mike Sofranko on May 19, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Description

This is a nice pitch of face climbing on the upper end of the West Ridge. It is somewhat runout, but the cruxy sections generally have a bolt or pin nearby.

Begin with the first pitch of Muscular Dystrophy. This can be found at the top of the West Ridge, down and around the corner to the right from the clean slab of Prince of Darkness. It is easily recognized by the short right slanting finger crack about 15 feet off the ground. Climb up to the slanting crack, and follow it to the right. Follow the corners up until you are below the steep and obvious crux corner of Muscular Dystrophy. Place some well runnered pro and head left and up on precarious looking flakes and blocks to a slot behind a large block. Belay here off a #3 and #2 Camalots (a #4 Friend is nice, too). You should see a bolt above you on the clean face. Now the fun really begins...

Climb past the bolt and straight up to a second bolt that is hidden from below. Head straight past this bolt over runout ground (possible marginal #0 or #1 TCU placements) until you can clip a pin in a horizontal crack. Hand traverse left past a second pin, but not so far left that you are on the arete. Head up and slightly right past another bolt and the crux moves to the top (climb the face, not the arete). There is a single belay bolt that can possibly be backed up with a tree or some creative cam/nut placements.

Protection

For Laughing at the Moon proper, only 5 or 6 QDs are needed (although a tiny cam or two might make you happier). However, bring finger through fist sized cams and a set of nuts for the approach pitch and belay.

Due to the runout nature of the pitch, and the fact that you need to place gear to get to this climb, it's trad not sport.

Photos

Very fun face climbing with a well protected crux and an easy descent. The runouts are easy enough and the harder moves well enough protected, that this is a good lead for a competent 5.10 leader. Jun 5, 2001
Chris Dawson
Denver, CO
Chris Dawson   Denver, CO
Laughing at the Moon is superfun. It is possible to combine Muscular Distrophy (I think) with the route Jan 5, 2002
I agree, this is a good route. You can also do it beginning with THE BAT (good protection) and you can combine them in one pitch. Jan 6, 2002
I agree with "the Deuce" Dawson. For its grade, this is one of the best pitches of face-climbing in the entire canyon. The first time we climbed it, "the Deuce" made me lower him back down two more times to reclimb the pitch! Jan 24, 2002
Ron Olsen
Boulder, CO
 
Ron Olsen   Boulder, CO
 
One of the best face pitches of its grade in Eldorado. Aug 4, 2002
Laughing at the Moon is approached by either The Bat or Muscular Dystrophy as has been mentioned. From the first belay of Musclar Dystrophy you have to traverse (belayed) to a series of horizontal cracks below the first bolt and either continue, or set a belay there. You can also do the crux pitch of Muscular Dystrophy and then rap diagonally down and left and set a belay for Laughing at the Moon. That way you get two great pitches (plus the ok first pitch of MD). Oct 14, 2002
Shane Zentner
Colorado
Shane Zentner   Colorado
Tricky at the top. Very enjoyable climb as both pitches are good. I backed up the pitons with a yellow alien. Climbing to the bolt after the pitons was challenging. Good fun! Aug 30, 2004
Exciting face climbing on beautiful rock, solid bolts and pins, and a well-protected crux. Jun 7, 2005
Clint Locks
Boulder
 
Clint Locks   Boulder
 
As is mentioned on the Bushwhack Crack page, BC is the most direct line to start Laughing At The Moon. You won't need anything more than a yellow Alien and a few small nuts/RPs to protect between bolts. By mistake, I climbed all the way through the hand traverse to the arete, then traversed back in a bit higher to the last bolt at ~ 5.9.
Tons of fun, and one of those pitches you wish was longer. Reminded me a bit of the upper part of Moonlight Drive (Cadillac), which is another one not to miss. Jan 21, 2009
Andy Kowles
Longtuckles
 
Andy Kowles   Longtuckles
 
This great route is best done as the 2nd half of a link up from MD, The Bat, whatever. It's natural to just bust out onto the face without dicking around with a belay. Nov 7, 2011
jmeizis
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.10b PG13
jmeizis   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.10b PG13
Awesome face climbing. There are enough bolts, but they're not the most confidence inspiring. The crux is exciting, probably more so if you're short. Started in from The Bat which was also a bit exciting. Feb 19, 2013
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.10b
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.10b
If anyone finds the protection (or prospects thereof) to be sparse, a solid #3 Camalot goes in 1/2 way up to the 1st bolt, a green or yellow Alien 1/2 way to the pins after the 2nd bolt. The route is thus G-rated. Dec 13, 2014
Eric Klammer
Boulder, CO
  5.10b PG13
Eric Klammer   Boulder, CO
  5.10b PG13
One of the best face pitches I've had the pleasure of climbing. Sustained at the 5.9 level with a few spots of easier 5.10, this is a continuous pitch with the perfect amount of protection. While in no way outright dangerous, this pitch kept my attention with tricky climbing above somewhat rusty bolts or pitons (even placing gear where possible). PG-13. Feb 10, 2015
Gregger Man
Broomfield, CO
Gregger Man   Broomfield, CO
SteveZ
Denver, CO
SteveZ   Denver, CO
^^^Thanks, Gregger Man. Shoot me a PM if you could use any hardware, money, or beer donations for the cause. Apr 11, 2015
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.10b
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.10b
^^^ A.C.E and B.C.C proudly fund bolt replacement in the area. You can find and donate to either on the net or on Facebook.
(Action Committee for Eldorado and Boulder Climbing Community) Apr 12, 2015

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