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Routes in West Ridge - part E - top to Xanadu

A Cut Above T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Android Tilt T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
As We Liked It T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Bat, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Between the Cracks T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Blackout T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Born Under Punches T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Bushwack Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Chock Suey T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Chockstone T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cornerstone TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Fade To Black T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Fading Light T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Friends in High Places T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ice Nine T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Jeep T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Jericho T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Joke Crack to Superstone T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Knight's Move T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Laughing at the Moon T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ministry of Fear T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a X
Modern Defense T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b X
Muscular Dystrophy T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Prince of Darkness T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Purple Haze T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Red House T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
S&M T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sirens of Titan T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Speakeasy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Superstone T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Sylvia's Bush T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tales of Ulysses T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tilt Right T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Whiplash T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: TR, 60 ft
FA: Peter Hunt TR 1986; Mark Tarrant self-belay(!) 1986.
Page Views: 749 total, 5/month
Shared By: Ivan Rezucha on Oct 29, 2004
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Seasonal Closures Details

Description

Cornerstone is the challenging face left of the Chockstone P1 crack. The 9/21/03 Chockstone photo by Guy Humphrey clearly shows the crux section of the Cornerstone face and the thin left-facing flake. According to Rossiter, Mark Tarrant led this self-belay with 2 bolts that were later chopped. Rossiter mentions a second pitch that was also led (presumably by Tarrant) with 2 bolts, and those bolts were also chopped. Rossiter doesn't give a rating or location for the second pitch.

Climb the first few moves of Chockstone to the stance below Chockstone's crux. The climbing is sustained from here for the next 20 feet or so. Move left to reach a thin flake, then climb the flake to its top. With your feet near the top of the flake, move left to reach the arete, which is pretty slick. Another move gets you a small ledge and the end of the hard climbing. It is possible, but more difficult, to move left to the arete after first stepping up onto the flake, rather than climbing to the top of the flake. The next bit feels like cheating: Climb the left side of the arete for a few moves. You are only a few feet from the Knight's Move corner, and you could easily stem over to it. Step back right onto the main face and continue to the anchors. From the ledge after the crux to the anchors is about 5.9 or perhaps a bit harder.

Variations: (I did not do these). Climb the entire arete from the ground, 12 something according to Rossiter. Possible minor variation: Avoid Chockstone by climbing about 2 feet further left.

Protection

Top rope after climbing P1 of Chockstone or perhaps Knight's Move. Clip a sling to Chockstone rap anchor, and place a double length sling over the flake to the left with 0.5 to #2 Camalots for backup.

Photos

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Mark Tarrant
  5.11c
Mark Tarrant  
  5.11c
This was my first ever FA , and a few weeks later it got chopped! I guess the choppers thought it was too close to Knight's Move or Chockstone. Peter TR'd the arete directly from the ground (.12), and later I led it coming in from the flake. I hand-drilled the bolts on lead (self-belay), from hooks, and fell once when a hook popped while placing the first bolt. The second pitch is very cool but has the major problem of having to climb about 5' of Knight's Move. It starts directly above P1 in a short dihedral and then (unfortunately) traverses left to KM, up 5', and then back right onto the steep face (.11b/c). It had 3 bolts that I wound up pulling because of the problem mentioned. The sleeves are still in place, and I suppose one could screw in new bolts and lead it again (a little runout by today's standards), and then the second could unscrew them and leave no trace! There's an idea for a minor adventure. Oct 31, 2004