Avg: 2.6 from 11 votes
|Type:||Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches|
|FA:||Chris Reveley and George Hurley|
|Page Views:||626 total · 3/month|
|Shared By:||Craig Quincy on Apr 3, 2002|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
Eldorado Canyon SP is STRONGLY DISCOURAGING CLIMBING at this time due to the COVID-19 pandemic.
Climbing is NOT ADVISED. Social distancing is challenging in Eldorado Canyon SP with climbing. The park office is closed. Warnings (& possible evictions from the SP) may be issued for violations of the social distancing requirement for a minimum of 6 feet between people not in the same household. In addition, touching surfaces contacted by others, which occurs on climbing routes and between climbing partners sharing equipment & rope(s), is a risk.
Rescues related to this sport are highly technical, require a large number of rescue personnel and equipment, and they generally result in an ambulance ride to the hospital. Please respect the statewide state-at-home order.
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
For more information visit:
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
This route is located between Knight's Move and Black Out and contains an obvious flared, slightly overhanging dihedral on its second pitch.
Pitch 1 (5.9 s): Begin on Knight's Move and after ten feet cut out left on dubious flakes and lichen covered terrain, sling a small tree and then head straight up thin cracks (RPs) on the arete to a terrible belay stance. Load up the crack in the dihedral with tiny nuts and put in some better gear (#1.5 and #2 Friends) down and right from the stance. It might be wiser to do a hanging belay from the cams down and to the right. Either way, it's not a great place to be hanging out.
Pitch 2 (5.11c s): The second pitch climbs straight up the steep, beautiful dihedral which is too small to accept fingers. Intially the dihedral protects with RPs and the smallest TCUs. A "thank god" fixed nut is located about 10 feet up and the belayer's nervous twitches and spasms should subside when it's clipped and they are no longer the landing zone for the leader. I give the start of this pitch a "serious" rating. A combination of stemming, pressing, scumming and squirmming is required to gain ground. Just when this combination becomes bleak there are some face holds outside the dihedral on the left hand side. Climb through a small roof and make some hard moves with much better gear. Continue over easier terrain up and right to a ledge with a tree festooned with rappel slings.
Descend by rapping Knight's Move. A 60m rope will just make the first of two rappels