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Routes in West Ridge - part E - top to Xanadu
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A Cut Above T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Android Tilt T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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As We Liked It T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Bat, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Between the Cracks T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
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Blackout T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Born Under Punches T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Bushwhack Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Chock Suey T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Chockstone T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Cornerstone TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Fade To Black T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Fading Light T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Friends in High Places T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Ice Nine T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Jeep T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Jericho T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R |
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Joke Crack to Superstone T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c R |
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Knight's Move T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Laughing at the Moon T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Ministry of Fear T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a X |
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Modern Defense T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b X |
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Muscular Dystrophy T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Prince of Darkness T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Purple Haze T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Red House T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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S&M T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Sirens of Titan T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Speakeasy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Superstone T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Sylvia's Bush T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Tales of Ulysses T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Tilt Right T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R |
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Whiplash T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Chris Reveley and George Hurley |
| Page Views: | 855 total · 3/month |
| Shared By: | Craig Quincy on Apr 3, 2002 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures - lifted
Details
Update: as of 6/7/23 per Mike McHugh, ECSP: all closures have been lifted within Eldorado Canyon State Park, including Continental Crag.
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Description
Some are content to climb only the classic routes of Eldorado that are chalked from top to bottom and worn smooth from the pitons of yesterday and the loving hands and feet of today. This is a classic Eldorado route of a different nature. It is unlikely to have chalk and the exquisite dihedral on the second pitch appears to never have been pitoned. This dihedral is how the first pitch of the Naked Edge might have looked before all the enthusiastic hammering occurred during the Golden Age.
This route is located between Knight's Move and Black Out and contains an obvious flared, slightly overhanging dihedral on its second pitch.
Pitch 1 (5.9 s): Begin on Knight's Move and after ten feet cut out left on dubious flakes and lichen covered terrain, sling a small tree and then head straight up thin cracks (RPs) on the arete to a terrible belay stance. Load up the crack in the dihedral with tiny nuts and put in some better gear (#1.5 and #2 Friends) down and right from the stance. It might be wiser to do a hanging belay from the cams down and to the right. Either way, it's not a great place to be hanging out.
Pitch 2 (5.11c s): The second pitch climbs straight up the steep, beautiful dihedral which is too small to accept fingers. Intially the dihedral protects with RPs and the smallest TCUs. A "thank god" fixed nut is located about 10 feet up and the belayer's nervous twitches and spasms should subside when it's clipped and they are no longer the landing zone for the leader. I give the start of this pitch a "serious" rating. A combination of stemming, pressing, scumming and squirmming is required to gain ground. Just when this combination becomes bleak there are some face holds outside the dihedral on the left hand side. Climb through a small roof and make some hard moves with much better gear. Continue over easier terrain up and right to a ledge with a tree festooned with rappel slings.
Descend by rapping Knight's Move. A 60m rope will just make the first of two rappels
This route is located between Knight's Move and Black Out and contains an obvious flared, slightly overhanging dihedral on its second pitch.
Pitch 1 (5.9 s): Begin on Knight's Move and after ten feet cut out left on dubious flakes and lichen covered terrain, sling a small tree and then head straight up thin cracks (RPs) on the arete to a terrible belay stance. Load up the crack in the dihedral with tiny nuts and put in some better gear (#1.5 and #2 Friends) down and right from the stance. It might be wiser to do a hanging belay from the cams down and to the right. Either way, it's not a great place to be hanging out.
Pitch 2 (5.11c s): The second pitch climbs straight up the steep, beautiful dihedral which is too small to accept fingers. Intially the dihedral protects with RPs and the smallest TCUs. A "thank god" fixed nut is located about 10 feet up and the belayer's nervous twitches and spasms should subside when it's clipped and they are no longer the landing zone for the leader. I give the start of this pitch a "serious" rating. A combination of stemming, pressing, scumming and squirmming is required to gain ground. Just when this combination becomes bleak there are some face holds outside the dihedral on the left hand side. Climb through a small roof and make some hard moves with much better gear. Continue over easier terrain up and right to a ledge with a tree festooned with rappel slings.
Descend by rapping Knight's Move. A 60m rope will just make the first of two rappels
Photos
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