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Routes in West Ridge - part E - top to Xanadu
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A Cut Above T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Android Tilt T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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As We Liked It T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Bat, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Between the Cracks T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
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Blackout T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Born Under Punches T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Bushwhack Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Chock Suey T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Chockstone T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Cornerstone TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Fade To Black T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Fading Light T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Friends in High Places T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Ice Nine T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Jeep T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Jericho T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R |
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Joke Crack to Superstone T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c R |
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Knight's Move T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Laughing at the Moon T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Ministry of Fear T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a X |
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Modern Defense T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b X |
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Muscular Dystrophy T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Prince of Darkness T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Purple Haze T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Red House T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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S&M T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Sirens of Titan T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Speakeasy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Superstone T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Sylvia's Bush T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Tales of Ulysses T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Tilt Right T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R |
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Whiplash T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, 2 pitches |
| FA: | Dan Hare and Alan Bradley, 1979 |
| Page Views: | 2,440 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | Matt Robertson on Nov 10, 2001 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures - lifted
Details
Update: as of 6/7/23 per Mike McHugh, ECSP: all closures have been lifted within Eldorado Canyon State Park, including Continental Crag.
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Description
Thirty feet left of Chockstone on the North Buttress area of the West Ridge, straight above the first pitch of Muscular Dystrophy, find two closely parallel, right-facing dihedrals that start thirty feet off the ground and culminate in a blocky overhang a hundred feet higher. The righthand of the two dihedrals is Byobu; the left is Fading Light.
Approach via the starting dog-leg crack of Muscular Dystrophy, or scramble up blocks to the belay ledge (with a tree) from the right. Belay near the pine tree and pull over a small roof to gain the dihedral which starts with some low-angle stemming and edging, then gets steeper as you move upward. The technical footwork gives way to some physical lieback moves as you approach the roof that caps both Fading Light and Byobu. Plug a good cam, monkey right across an exposed, juggy overhang while sorting out the sequence (might be solid 5.9), and pull onto a good ledge. This move is exhilarating and fun. There is a good belay anchor (slings and a fixed wire) ten feet above the ledge, which I recommend clipping with a long leash so you can stand on the ledge below. Mind the pebbly rubble on the ledge. The second pitch takes a steep 5.6 dihedral to the left via jugs and blocky steps. If there is a crowd below, be very cautious up high as the rock is quite broken and loose, or consider rappelling from the first belay. One could also take pitch two of Byobu (5.9 and also loose), straight up from the belay. Either pitch leads to an easy walk-off to the northwest.
The first pitch is very good and much better than it appears from the ground.
Approach via the starting dog-leg crack of Muscular Dystrophy, or scramble up blocks to the belay ledge (with a tree) from the right. Belay near the pine tree and pull over a small roof to gain the dihedral which starts with some low-angle stemming and edging, then gets steeper as you move upward. The technical footwork gives way to some physical lieback moves as you approach the roof that caps both Fading Light and Byobu. Plug a good cam, monkey right across an exposed, juggy overhang while sorting out the sequence (might be solid 5.9), and pull onto a good ledge. This move is exhilarating and fun. There is a good belay anchor (slings and a fixed wire) ten feet above the ledge, which I recommend clipping with a long leash so you can stand on the ledge below. Mind the pebbly rubble on the ledge. The second pitch takes a steep 5.6 dihedral to the left via jugs and blocky steps. If there is a crowd below, be very cautious up high as the rock is quite broken and loose, or consider rappelling from the first belay. One could also take pitch two of Byobu (5.9 and also loose), straight up from the belay. Either pitch leads to an easy walk-off to the northwest.
The first pitch is very good and much better than it appears from the ground.
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