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Routes in West Ridge - part E - top to Xanadu

A Cut Above T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Android Tilt T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
As We Liked It T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Bat, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Between the Cracks T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Blackout T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Born Under Punches T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Bushwack Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Chock Suey T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Chockstone T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cornerstone TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Fade To Black T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Fading Light T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Friends in High Places T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ice Nine T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Jeep T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Jericho T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Joke Crack to Superstone T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Knight's Move T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Laughing at the Moon T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ministry of Fear T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a X
Modern Defense T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b X
Muscular Dystrophy T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Prince of Darkness T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Purple Haze T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Red House T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
S&M T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sirens of Titan T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Speakeasy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Superstone T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Sylvia's Bush T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tales of Ulysses T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tilt Right T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Whiplash T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, TR
FA: P. Ament & C Griffith, (originally with 1 bolt)
Page Views: 168 total, 1/month
Shared By: Tony B on Jan 8, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Seasonal Closures Details

Description

From Ken Trout: Pat Ament and Christian Griffith made a movie about this route (available @ AAC Library). It had one bolt and was led that way. Later, someone chopped the route, leaving it to remain as a toprope. Rossiter documented the line such, and as such it has remained.

The holds on this route are small and some are savagely sharp. A Cut Above? Yeah, I got several cut above the first knuckle. I tried this in a post-desert-trip skin-peeling state and paid dearly. After 1/2 tries I went away with 1/2 dozen sliced, oozing fingers and without a clean TR. My partner (Peter Spindloe) got it, however. Thick finger pads are required.

There is no protection on this 25' line, but the crux is done with your feet between 5-10 feet off of the ground. After that, the climbing is easier.

About 15-20 feet right of the start of the first pitch of Muscular Dystrophy, set a TR (or crash pads) below the center of a vertical face with small holds. The area is accessible from a scramble on the right and a large pine tree provides a place for the TR anchor. Work your way up on difficult holds to the tree.

Protection

There isn't any. Still, the route's crux is reasonably close to the ground and the landing is flat. This is originally a T.R., but would make a reasonable boulder problem with a few crash pads, or a 'headpoint' after [rehearsal].

Photos

Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
 
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
 
Ken,
Thanks for the info. The route description has been amended to include your notes, paraphrased slightly for tone. If that seems adequate, you can take or leave your comment, as you please, but I thought it best to put that in the description, not just comments below. Dec 6, 2016
Ken Trout
Golden, CO
 
Ken Trout   Golden, CO
 
No! - not even - on the history. Pat Ament and Christian Griffith made a movie about this route (available @ AAC Library). It had one bolt and was led that way. Later, some all-knowing newbie chopped a Pat Ament route. Used to be very worthwhile problem.

Not Tony's error! For some unknown reason Rossiter documents this as a toprope. Dec 6, 2016
Nick Wilder
The Bubble
Nick Wilder   The Bubble  
Fixed. I think there was some import bugs for this route from long ago. Nov 26, 2009
Jay Samuelson
Denver CO
  5.12-
Jay Samuelson   Denver CO
  5.12-
I tried to change my rating to 5.x, but the drop down menu only provides V grades to choose from. Nov 26, 2009
Nick Wilder
The Bubble
Nick Wilder   The Bubble  
There is no easy fix for this one. I've deleted the V5 rating. Please stick with 5.x ratings for this route. Nov 24, 2009
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
Interesting bug in the consensus rating algorithm. V grades and 5.whatever grades don't seem to mix. The folks with who write up these algorithms are working on this one. Nov 21, 2009
Jay Samuelson
Denver CO
  5.12-
Jay Samuelson   Denver CO
  5.12-
I thought this was a fun little problem. I did it on tr, but it would be more fun with some crash pads and a spotter. Crux moves are down low, which would make the top out a little easier on the head. Impossible looking face, until I started climbng and holds started to magically appear. Nov 21, 2009