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Routes in West Ridge - part E - top to Xanadu
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A Cut Above T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Android Tilt T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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As We Liked It T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Bat, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Between the Cracks T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
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Blackout T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Born Under Punches T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Bushwhack Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Chock Suey T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Chockstone T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Cornerstone TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Fade To Black T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Fading Light T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Friends in High Places T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Ice Nine T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Jeep T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Jericho T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R |
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Joke Crack to Superstone T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c R |
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Knight's Move T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Laughing at the Moon T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Ministry of Fear T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a X |
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Modern Defense T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b X |
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Muscular Dystrophy T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Prince of Darkness T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Purple Haze T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Red House T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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S&M T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Sirens of Titan T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Speakeasy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Superstone T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Sylvia's Bush T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Tales of Ulysses T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Tilt Right T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R |
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Whiplash T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
| Type: | Trad, 50 ft (15 m) |
| GPS: | 39.93325, -105.28897 |
| FA: | Dave Bohn, Ken Duncan, 1976 |
| Page Views: | 948 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | Dave Holliday on Aug 17, 2017 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures - lifted
Details
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Description
This route isn't a classic, but it does have the distinction of being the highest route on the West Ridge listed in Steve Levin's guidebook to the canyon.
It starts with a corner that looks questionable but isn't that bad. Once you pass the corner and get onto a good ledge, climb the hand and fist crack to the top. There's a bit of loose rock in the crack, but it's easy to get around it.
(The route name and first ascent party were obtained from Steve Levin's excellent guidebook to the canyon.)
Location
The route is a little ways up the Shirt Tail Peak approach gully. Look for a prominent flake and crack on the right side of the gully as you leave the trail that goes from Rincon to the West Ridge. The corner starts straight below said crack. Once you top out, easily scramble down climber's left back to the Shirt Tail Peak gully trail.
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