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Routes in West Ridge - part E - top to Xanadu

A Cut Above T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Android Tilt T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
As We Liked It T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Bat, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Between the Cracks T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Blackout T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Born Under Punches T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Bushwack Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Chock Suey T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Chockstone T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cornerstone TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Fade To Black T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Fading Light T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Friends in High Places T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ice Nine T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Jeep T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Jericho T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Joke Crack to Superstone T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Knight's Move T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Laughing at the Moon T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ministry of Fear T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a X
Modern Defense T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b X
Muscular Dystrophy T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Prince of Darkness T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Purple Haze T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Red House T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
S&M T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sirens of Titan T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Speakeasy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Superstone T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Sylvia's Bush T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tales of Ulysses T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tilt Right T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Whiplash T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 2 pitches
FA: Sharpe & Coyne, Rossiters
Page Views: 144 total, 1/month
Shared By: slevin on Oct 23, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Closures Details

Description

Joke Crack is located immediately around the corner right from Chockstone, at the upper end of the West Ridge just before Rincon. Climb the slanting, striking splitter in the overhanging left wall of the corner to a small tree and rap anchors (shared with Chockstone). Rap, or belay and then continue on Superstone, up into a tight, R-facing corner past a bolt (5.11a, rated 5.11c in the Eldo book), then continue directly up the corner, moving a tad left, then back right and up the corner (hard move, 5.11c), or avoid this hard move by stepping out of the corner right, then up. Rap anchors up and right (one rope off, and catch a toprope on Ministry of Fear, 5.11c/d X, the thin seam in the steep wall to the right of Joke Crack, that is reached from a hand traverse starting on the left).

The crack is a bit sharp, and provides some technical finger and hand jams. If you use the available wall to the right to stem out on and rest, the route is perhaps 5.11a. Avoiding the right wall is contrived, but a good challenge that jacks the difficulty up to somewhere in the mid-5.11 range.

The blunt arete between Chockstone and Joke Crack has not been climbed free, yet, but provides an interesting toprope flail session.

Protection

Standard Eldo rack including medium - large wires, TCUs and cams to 3". Bring RPs if you continue with Superstone.

Photos

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This is a fun route even with stemming over to the right wall. Apr 13, 2014
slim

 
slim    
 
Agree w/ Shumin about contrived. It is so sad that one of the prettier cracks in Eldo is in such a tight location. The crux of Joke Crack is not bumping into the wall 3 feet right of it. Unfortunately, the crack leans to the right, so it is pretty hard not to kick the right wall. The gear towards the top gets a little tricky as the crack has a funky flared/poddy geometry, and you have to pull to the left to look into the crack. Also, there is a wedged flake in the very top that is a little disconcerting. Worth doing once though. Sep 28, 2009
reboot
.
reboot   .
This would be a three-star route IF the wall and the easy crack forming the start of purple haze weren't there. But as it is, it felt very contrived. Without using the "easy" crack and stemming the wall for rest, this felt like a 10, but then again, one must use it to get started... Jul 29, 2007