Avg: 1.9 from 17 votes
|FA:||Mike Brooks & partner, 1980s|
|Page Views:||696 total · 3/month|
|Shared By:||Tony B on Jan 11, 2002|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
On the West Ridge, about midway between Xanadu and Chockstone, there is a broken face that goes up to a 10' tall, shallow dihedral, which faces more or less, left. At the top of this dihedral is a triangular roof, which is passed on the left to reach a tree, growing in yet another shallow left-facing dihedral.
Although the seam of the dihedral offers no pro, there is a splitter thin-finger to finger crack on the wall at the left of it. Take several pieces to place in this section, as it will likely be your only pro for the crux, and it is reasonable.
Passing the roof is the crux, and after that you can either continue up moderate climbing until you reach a ledge to walk to a rap (as for Xanadu) or make a rap somewhere on your own. The tree in the route seemed OK, but I did not personally test it.
The moves are fun, and perhaps a shade hard at their grade, but the crux is short. Although it is a reasonably fun route, there are certainly more worthy routes nearby, and I wondered at how this route managed to get a star (1/1) in the book.
The bolts/chains at the top above the ledge now facilitate a 75' rap or an easy TR off of a few draws. This TR is particularly handy for the 5.11d "Tilt Right" that exits the roof on the other side.