Avg: 1.9 from 17 votes
|FA:||Mike Brooks & partner, 1980s|
|Page Views:||531 total · 2/month|
|Shared By:||Tony B on Jan 11, 2002|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
Eldorado Canyon SP is STRONGLY DISCOURAGING CLIMBING at this time due to the COVID-19 pandemic.
Climbing is NOT ADVISED. Social distancing is challenging in Eldorado Canyon SP with climbing. The park office is closed. Warnings (& possible evictions from the SP) may be issued for violations of the social distancing requirement for a minimum of 6 feet between people not in the same household. In addition, touching surfaces contacted by others, which occurs on climbing routes and between climbing partners sharing equipment & rope(s), is a risk.
Rescues related to this sport are highly technical, require a large number of rescue personnel and equipment, and they generally result in an ambulance ride to the hospital. Please respect the statewide state-at-home order.
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
For more information visit:
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
On the West Ridge, about midway between Xanadu and Chockstone, there is a broken face that goes up to a 10' tall, shallow dihedral, which faces more or less, left. At the top of this dihedral is a triangular roof, which is passed on the left to reach a tree, growing in yet another shallow left-facing dihedral.
Although the seam of the dihedral offers no pro, there is a splitter thin-finger to finger crack on the wall at the left of it. Take several pieces to place in this section, as it will likely be your only pro for the crux, and it is reasonable.
Passing the roof is the crux, and after that you can either continue up moderate climbing until you reach a ledge to walk to a rap (as for Xanadu) or make a rap somewhere on your own. The tree in the route seemed OK, but I did not personally test it.
The moves are fun, and perhaps a shade hard at their grade, but the crux is short. Although it is a reasonably fun route, there are certainly more worthy routes nearby, and I wondered at how this route managed to get a star (1/1) in the book.
The bolts/chains at the top above the ledge now facilitate a 75' rap or an easy TR off of a few draws. This TR is particularly handy for the 5.11d "Tilt Right" that exits the roof on the other side.