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Routes in West Ridge - part E - top to Xanadu

A Cut Above T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Android Tilt T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
As We Liked It T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Bat, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Between the Cracks T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Blackout T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Born Under Punches T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Bushwack Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Chock Suey T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Chockstone T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cornerstone TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Fade To Black T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Fading Light T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Friends in High Places T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ice Nine T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Jeep T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Jericho T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Joke Crack to Superstone T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Knight's Move T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Laughing at the Moon T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ministry of Fear T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a X
Modern Defense T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b X
Muscular Dystrophy T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Prince of Darkness T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Purple Haze T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Red House T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
S&M T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sirens of Titan T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Speakeasy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Superstone T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Sylvia's Bush T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tales of Ulysses T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tilt Right T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Whiplash T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad
FA: Mike Brooks & partner, 1980s
Page Views: 196 total, 1/month
Shared By: Tony B on Jan 11, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Closures Details

Description

This route is another addition to the "Obsure Tour" list that several of us are making. Not even Rossiter has it quite right in the books, as there is no bolt anywhere on the line or near it.

On the West Ridge, about midway between Xanadu and Chockstone, there is a broken face that goes up to a 10' tall, shallow dihedral, which faces more or less, left. At the top of this dihedral is a triangular roof, which is passed on the left to reach a tree, growing in yet another shallow left-facing dihedral.

Although the seam of the dihedral offers no pro, there is a splitter thin-finger to finger crack on the wall at the left of it. Take several pieces to place in this section, as it will likely be your only pro for the crux, and it is reasonable.

Passing the roof is the crux, and after that you can either continue up moderate climbing until you reach a ledge to walk to a rap (as for Xanadu) or make a rap somewhere on your own. The tree in the route seemed OK, but I did not personally test it.

The moves are fun, and perhaps a shade hard at their grade, but the crux is short. Although it is a reasonably fun route, there are certainly more worthy routes nearby, and I wondered at how this route managed to get a star (1/1) in the book.

Protection

The first part of the route is easy (below 5.8), and I didn't really protect it. As the route approaches difficulty, there is a finger crack in the left side which can take protection.

The bolts/chains at the top above the ledge now facilitate a 75' rap or an easy TR off of a few draws. This TR is particularly handy for the 5.11d "Tilt Right" that exits the roof on the other side.

Photos

D. Snyder
Golden, CO
  5.10b
D. Snyder   Golden, CO
  5.10b
This is a worthy little pitch if you're in the area. Fun moves and good protection with a rap anchor at 70'. Oct 14, 2016
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
 
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
 
This climb has cleaned up quite a bit in the last decade. It is still a little thin in places unless you take very small cams (i.e. black Alien/red Camalot Jr.).
I'd give it 1-2*s on lead, 3*s to follow. We did it today in front of a bit of a crowd and seemed to generate a lot of interest in it, and that is a good thing. This climb deserves more traffic than it gets. Jan 25, 2015
Brent Apgar
Out of the Loop
 
Brent Apgar   Out of the Loop
 
No one had mentioned it. But there is a 2 bolt anchor w/ chains at the top of this route. At least as of March 2012. Mar 11, 2012
Jay Eggleston
Denver
  5.10b
Jay Eggleston   Denver
  5.10b
I wouldn't call the crack a "finger crack" unless you have infant-sized fingers. The crack does take 00 and 0 C3s quite well though. Dec 3, 2010
M. Morley
Sacramento, CA
  5.10c
M. Morley   Sacramento, CA  
  5.10c
Short, but fun and a worthy tick if in the area. 1-1/2 stars. As Tony mentions, don't look too hard for the bolt noted in the Rossiter guide. It doesn't exist. Nov 9, 2003