Avg: 2.3 from 38 votes
|Type:||Trad, 60 ft (18 m)|
|FA:||J. Schiavone & D. Grandusky, 1981|
|Page Views:||2,235 total · 9/month|
|Shared By:||Tony B on Nov 7, 2001|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
On the right-hand side (facing SouthEast) of the Chockstone Buttress there is a huge, right-facing dihedral formed by the intersection of the buttress and the main wall. This is about 50' to the Right of Chockstone. Through the left side of this dihedral is a ~2-3.5" crack leaning hard ot the right which goes up 50' or so to a broken roof. A few moves are stemming, a few feel more like a chimney, but the necesary technique is predominantly jamming. Ride the crack up to the roof them work delicately up and left to past the overhang to the ledge. Belay on fixed anchors several yards back, as per Purple Haze.
There are few opportunities in Eldo to climb on sustained handracks, so this one is fun by that right. The crack is seriously abrasive, however, so if you are not a master-jammer, TAPE UP!
At the top of the route, tread lightly and be careful where you place, because the rock is questionable. I have done this route 4 times, and it felt fine... but I've been careful, so I can't promise that reckless abandon or pumped-panic won't produce a disaster.