Type: Trad, 60 ft (18 m)
FA: J. Schiavone & D. Grandusky, 1981
Page Views: 2,235 total · 9/month
Shared By: Tony B on Nov 7, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Description

Locate the West Ridge North Buttress area favorites, Chockstone and Purple Haze. If you don't know where these are, go ask the line of top-ropers or cued up lead parties because they are on them. (You can also refer to the on-line directions to those routes.)

On the right-hand side (facing SouthEast) of the Chockstone Buttress there is a huge, right-facing dihedral formed by the intersection of the buttress and the main wall. This is about 50' to the Right of Chockstone. Through the left side of this dihedral is a ~2-3.5" crack leaning hard ot the right which goes up 50' or so to a broken roof. A few moves are stemming, a few feel more like a chimney, but the necesary technique is predominantly jamming. Ride the crack up to the roof them work delicately up and left to past the overhang to the ledge. Belay on fixed anchors several yards back, as per Purple Haze.

There are few opportunities in Eldo to climb on sustained handracks, so this one is fun by that right. The crack is seriously abrasive, however, so if you are not a master-jammer, TAPE UP!

Protection

The protection is predominantly 1.5-3" cams, and is generally good. Take doubles if you want to sew this up, and maybe a few larger or smaller pieces.

At the top of the route, tread lightly and be careful where you place, because the rock is questionable. I have done this route 4 times, and it felt fine... but I've been careful, so I can't promise that reckless abandon or pumped-panic won't produce a disaster.

Photos