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Routes in West Ridge - part E - top to Xanadu

A Cut Above T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Android Tilt T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
As We Liked It T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Bat, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Between the Cracks T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Blackout T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Born Under Punches T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13
Bushwhack Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Chock Suey T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Chockstone T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cornerstone TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Fade To Black T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Fading Light T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Friends in High Places T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ice Nine T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Jeep T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Jericho T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Joke Crack to Superstone T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Knight's Move T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Laughing at the Moon T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ministry of Fear T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a X
Modern Defense T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b X
Muscular Dystrophy T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Prince of Darkness T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Purple Haze T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Red House T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
S&M T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sirens of Titan T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Speakeasy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Superstone T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Sylvia's Bush T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tales of Ulysses T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tilt Right T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Whiplash T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
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Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: J. Schiavone & D. Grandusky, 1981
Page Views: 1,631 total · 8/month
Shared By: Tony B on Nov 7, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details


Locate the West Ridge North Buttress area favorites, Chockstone and Purple Haze. If you don't know where these are, go ask the line of top-ropers or cued up lead parties because they are on them. (You can also refer to the on-line directions to those routes.)

On the right-hand side (facing SouthEast) of the Chockstone Buttress there is a huge, right-facing dihedral formed by the intersection of the buttress and the main wall. This is about 50' to the Right of Chockstone. Through the left side of this dihedral is a ~2-3.5" crack leaning hard ot the right which goes up 50' or so to a broken roof. A few moves are stemming, a few feel more like a chimney, but the necesary technique is predominantly jamming. Ride the crack up to the roof them work delicately up and left to past the overhang to the ledge. Belay on fixed anchors several yards back, as per Purple Haze.

There are few opportunities in Eldo to climb on sustained handracks, so this one is fun by that right. The crack is seriously abrasive, however, so if you are not a master-jammer, TAPE UP!


The protection is predominantly 1.5-3" cams, and is generally good. Take doubles if you want to sew this up, and maybe a few larger or smaller pieces.

At the top of the route, tread lightly and be careful where you place, because the rock is questionable. I have done this route 4 times, and it felt fine... but I've been careful, so I can't promise that reckless abandon or pumped-panic won't produce a disaster.


Joel Larner
Fort Collins, CO
Joel Larner   Fort Collins, CO
Clean Dan and I did the first ascent of this route so long ago, that I didn't remember it until my friend John Baldwin reminded me that we had done it. This is just a little tribute to my friend Dan, who left us early, probably because he was fighting demons, just as I have. I didn't know it at the time, and I think Dan made the route name suggestion, but I believe both of us survived some punches. The difference is I got a handle on the hits I got, and Dan didn't. I am really sad to lose this spirit to this world. I wish I had been in contact with Dan more over the years. Take care of your friends.

Joel Schiavone Sep 28, 2004
Boulder, CO
claytown   Boulder, CO
Fun route. Hands and thin hands with just the left foot in the crack to start. Opens a little to a fist then off-width or move right up into the roof. Don't fall here and find somewhere to get a piece among the detached blocks. Pulling through the roof is not hard and really fun. Link with "p2" of Purple Haze or Friends in High Places and end up at the tree. 1 pitch with a 60. Rap or lower.

Could garner an R on lead since the roof portion is mainly detached blocks and you would be 10' above the last piece in the crack. Might get a #4 or #5 where it flares to OW though. Jan 20, 2008
Boulder, CO
  5.10a PG13
tooTALLtim   Boulder, CO
  5.10a PG13
A #4 C4 does not fit :-( Jun 13, 2008
Phil Lauffen
Innsbruck, AT
Phil Lauffen   Innsbruck, AT  
Wow-- this climb packs a punch. I ended up doing a strenuous lieback for a short time. This was a bad idea. pulling over the roof is easy and you can get good no hands rests in right below it. While I did not lead it, it looked like you could get pretty good gear in and I watched someone lead the roof and they had plenty of good cam placements.

Edit to add: I also thought this was a little sandbagged, though my crack technique is obviously mediocre. Mar 8, 2009
Joe Huggins
Grand Junction
Joe Huggins   Grand Junction
Dave Hague said he had a first ascent waiting for me on the West Ridge; so we walked up there and I started getting my butt kicked. 10a was hard for me in those days. Along come Joel and Clean Dan, at which point Dave invites them to have a shot; while I sputter-"but, but". So Joel shows us how it's done; and I suppose I've forgiven Dave for giving away my glory.... Mar 24, 2009
Mark Cushman
Cumming, GA
Mark Cushman   Cumming, GA
I second Tony's comment to TAPE UP! I don't usually tape in Eldo, but I would if I were to do this climb again. The inside of this crack is very rough. It was a fun climb and easy to TR from the Friends in High Places anchors. Apr 7, 2010
Paul Hunnicutt
Boulder, CO
  5.10 PG13
Paul Hunnicutt   Boulder, CO
  5.10 PG13
+3 on the tape. Mar 13, 2011
Black Hawk, CO
mountainhick   Black Hawk, CO
Unusual to find pure crack climbing like this at Eldo. Crack is a bit rough, tape would be good, but I didn't tape and no problem if you place your hands carefully. I indeed got a bomber #4 Camalot at the top of the crack where it widens climbing up into the pod under the overhang. Then really fun moves to turn and pop over the roof. Sep 11, 2012
Lenore Sparks
Dolores, CO
Lenore Sparks   Dolores, CO
Amazing climbing. I combined this pitch with the 2nd of Purple Haze for a 30 meter 5.10 super pitch. Highly recommended. Just bring a long sling for underneath the roof to avoid any drag. I had none. A 70 meter rope will get you to the ground from the "Friends in High Places" anchor. SWEET! Feb 10, 2016
The Blueprint Part Dank
The Blueprint Part Dank   FEMA Region VIII
I WAS able to place a #4 C4 at the loose roof section, it was a blind-ish placement to the left as you start pulling up through the roof, but as I cleaned the route, I was able to take a good look at it, and I think it was a pretty bomber placement.

I think that a #4 Friend would be an even better fit, but the #4 C4 did work.

My rack (C4s):
1x #0.5
1x #0.75
1x #1
2x #2
2x #3
1x #4. Oct 2, 2016

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